Walkera DEVO 12 Transmitter.
http://www.rcecho.com/Walkera-Devention-DEVO-8-2.4GHz-8ch-Micro-Computer-Transmitter-and-Receiver-TS870.html
http://www.rcecho.com/images/walkeradevention8chtransmitter01.jpg
Due to a minor illness that as kept me from flying for a few weeks, I decided I needed some therapy, what better than a new transmitter to “play” with. I decided on the new “super” Tx. The Walkera 12 ch.DEVO12. As I can find very little info on this set, this article is of observations and completely non-technical.
The tx.was purchased from China, cost around $500.00 including ESM freight, arrived in perfect condition in 4 days from order. It consisted of a 12 ch. 2.4 Tx, transmitter battery pack, 120-240 v. Lipo battery charger, 12 ch receiver, quality neckstrap and lockable aluminium case. Seems expensive but cheap as compared with top JR and Futaba. No instruction book at all. However I am familiar with 10 ch.JR and recently converted to the fantastic Hitec Aurora so really no problem.
Visually the tx. shape has been copied from the latest JR, you either hate it or love it, it’s OK, quite light, perfectly balanced and exterior quality a par with JR. No Chinese junk in appearance.
This is NOT a computer radio, this is a transmitter built around a LARGE computer window screen. I read somewhere you can bring up 800 different “windows” on the screen. The screen is both touch operated but unlike the buttons on other tx. these buttons operate similar to either a mouse or a keyboard. ENTER EXIT RIGHT LEFT UP DOWN. They move icons and cursor on the screen ah la computer. The screen is backlite with numerous adjustments for light and timing, plus different backgrounds. You can download a series of window photos from the deVention website, but this is not necessary as the screen show full details, photos .graphs, no abbreviations, just very simple.
Some of the gimmicky features. Auxilary controls go though the set and can be operated from either the front or rear, a flush mounted, spring loaded neck strap attachment, well concealed touch screen probe and the tx.battery. At last someone has come up with a great set up. Firstlty the battery lid is sprung loaded and is not need to support the battery, a monster 3000 mah. Single cell 3.7 v. hard case lipo,branded DEVO similar to mobile phone or laptop batteries. The charger is 120-240 volt with both cut outs for fully charged and minimum charge. It HAS to be charged in the set due to the connectors although you could crudely use alligator clips.
The sets come in Mode 1,2,3 or 4 and to change the stick assemblies on the back is the hardest I have ever done. Mainly because there are no visible screws or bolts on the Tx. all are hidden , nearly 20 of them. The spring changeover takes a little thought and is quite crude but effective. Quite a drama.
It is obvious this set is designed around helis but still has more than most for both aircraft and gliders. 4 different set ups, 12 mixes. I have no idea if this set is technical first class , but knowing of the quality of Walkera helis, I could not understand them going any other way.
Now it has a couple of odd things, that not being technical minded, I cannot understand. Firstly the receiver battery voltage is stated a 5 volt. no less. no more so at this time I have not connected it just in case. I’m just working around info shown on the monitor. At a guess it would probably be OK from 4.8 to 6.6v. I have written to deVention and will be interested if I get a reply. We all know Chinese of support. Secondly there is no mention of binding the rx. to the tx. and as stated I am still “playing” and awaiting a reply. Additional rx’s are available for around $60.00. Also no mention or buttons to range check the system. However amongst the numerous ICONS there is “POWER AMPLIFER” with both a graph and adjustments from -5dBm to +20dBm. Anyone know about dBm’s ? and what would be the nominal range.
All in all this looks like a great set up, certainly a great “toy”. There is a lot of good stuff coming out of China now and we can no longer assume the being “cheap” is inferior. If anyone is interested, I will follow up with info received from deVention (fingures crossed) and follow up with flight tests and look forward to receiving notes from anyone else with this system.
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
GLOW ENGINED R/C CAR
GLOW ENGINED R/C CAR
Tamiya's glow engine powered radio control models allow you to enjoy the fascination of internal combustion powerplant operation at work. Maximum performance is ensured by using high quality, reliable glow engine components. Add these to the superbly designed chassis and suspension, and you have Tamiya’s new dimension in glow engine enjoyment.
*NOTE: This is a scale model using an internal combustion engine, and is suitable for modelers 14 years of age and older. It is not a toy.
1. RADIO CONTROL SYSTEMS FOR ENGINED CARS
A 2-channel 2-servo radio system with a receiver battery case, is standard. One servo controls steering, while the other controls throttle and braking. Refer to the safety instructions included with the radio for proper use.
ITEMS REQUIRED FOR STARTING ENGINE
In addition to glow fuel, several other items are required for starting a glow engine. A fuel filler, battery for glow plug and a cable/clip to connect the battery to the glow plug.
2. ABOUT GLOW ENGINES
Two-stroke glow engines are known for their simple and reliable mechanics. Fuel and air is
mixed in carburetor, drawn into the cylinder, compressed and ignited by the glow plug. The explosion (combustion) translated into workable power via the crankshaft. The correct ratio of fuel/air mixture is essential to keep the engine running properly.
GLOW ENGINE COMPONENTS
ABOUT ENGINE COMPONENTS
*CARBURETOR
The carburetor is the engine component that mixes the fuel and air to the proper ratio and atomizes it. The throttle adjusts the amount of fuel/air mixture available to the cylinder. An open throttle allows more intake of the mixture, resulting in increased engine RPM and a higher running speed.
*GLOW PLUG
The heated glow plug filament ignites the compressed air/fuel mixture in the cylinder, producing combustion, which forces down the piston. This rotates the crankshaft, and the cycle is repeated. The glow plug, once heated, is kept hot by the repeated combustion cycle.
*RECOIL STARTER
The recoil zip starter is a manual method of starting a glow engine by pulling the rope handle in quick succession, forcing the crankshaft to rapidly rotate. The rope automatically rewinds by the recoil spring in the casing. An electric starter is also offered with some models that use an electric motor for engine start.
*CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH
A centrifugal clutch remains disengaged until the engine reaches a specified RPM. This g keeps the car from jumping out when the engine is first started, and at idle. When the proper RPM is reached (by advancing the throttle), the clutch engages and power is transmitted to the transmission.
3. BRAKE UNIT
Most full sized automobiles use the disc idle has stabilized, remove glow plug brake system, and it is also used on Ft/C glow cable/clip and return throttle trim to its engined models to reduce speed; however, the model car system is synchronized with throttle servo movement. The brake is activated when engine power is reduced by moving the transmitter control stick back, or the trigger forward.
4. GLOW ENGINE FUEL
Use only the specified glow engine fuel for your R/C model. Glow fuels contain Methanol and Nitro Methane for combustion, plus lubricant for engine protection.
*A higher ratio of Nitro Methane can produce higher power output, but will result in engine starting difficulties.
5. ENGINE STARTING PROCEDURE
The standard procedure for starting glow engines is described below. Always refer to the
instructions included with your engine and/or model for correct procedure.
6. STOPPING ENGINE
Engine can be stopped by removing the air cleaner and closing off air intake or blocking exhaust; however, fuel remaining in engine tank could damage internal components. It is therefore recommended that the engine be run at idle until it runs out of fuel.
7.UNING TIPS FOR GLOW ENGINED R/C CARS
Adjustment of chassis components, such as suspension etc. are common with electric and glow engine powered cars. Several points unique to glow engined R/C cars are discussed below.
IMPROVING RELIABILITY AND ENDURANCE
Overheating is often a problem with glow engines. To reduce this, cut air intake openings in the body shell to help cool the engine. Replace the engine's heat sink with a larger or more efficient one. Sand and/or debris in the fuel can damage internal engine parts. Install a fuel filter to prevent this.
FOR QUICKER ENGINE RESPONSE
Glow engines produce usable torque after sufficient RPM is reached (ie. low torque at low RPM). By using a lighter weight flywheel, the time required to reach high RPM is shortened. This provides quicker throttle response, improving acceleration. Make sure to adjust the engine’s needle valve and idle setting after replacing a flywheel.
BETTER BRAKING
Just like full sized vehicies, a glow engine car is equipped with a braking system. Brakes are used often during running and wear following prolonged use. Replace worn parts when required. Larger diameter brake disks, or ones of composite material are available for some cars, which provide better braking.
OBTAINING A HIGHER ENGINE OUTPUT
it is not recommended to modify the engine’s cylinder or piston, as this requires a high degree of knowledge, experience and facilities. An easier way to obtain more power is to use a glow fuel of higher specifications. Race oriented fuels include a higher Nitro Methane content and are on the market. However, always refer to your engine's instructions and use its recommended fuel.
TO AVOID RUNNING OUT OF FUEL
Even though refueling is not difficult, sudden stops clue to fuel starvation should be avoided. To aid in this, a fuel level indicator is available from Tamiya for their glow engined Ft/C cars. A sensor monitors fuel level in the tank, and when low, a light emitting diode glows alerting time to refuel.
8. MAINTENANCE
Glow engined cars get soiled from oil residue after running, due to the lubricants used in the fuel. Daily clean-up and maintenance is essential for optimum performance.
CLEANING CHASSlS
To remove the oily residue from chassis components, an alcoholic cleaning spray is recommended. Several types are available from hobby shops; however, use only the cleaner developed for model use as other types could attack the plastic and rubber components.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
The engine's internal components are exposed to high heat, pressure and exhaust gases during operation. If left uncleaned, the oily grime can cause rust and corrosion inside the engine. Use an oil spray for cleaning. Remove the glow plug and spray directly into the cylinder and carburetor after running.
*Vehicle components such as engine, muffler, exhaust pipe etc. get very hot during use and can cause burns if touched. Allow to cool before cleaning and maintenance.
CHECKING GLOW PLUG
The glow plug is also subject to high temperatures and pressure. Periodically check and replace when necessary. To check the plug, remove it from the engine and connect it to the battery with the cable/clip. The filament should glow a bright red if good.
AIR FILTER
A clogged air filter hinders the supply of air to the engine, resulting in lowered performance. Periodically check and replace the air filter element when necessary.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
To avoid serious personal injury and/or property damage, operate all remotely controlled models in a responsible manner as out-lined below. Be aware of your surroundings when operating any model.
Never run models near people or animals, nor use people or animals as obstacles when operating vehicles.
Never run Fl/C models on the street or highway, as it could cause or contribute to serious traffic accidents.
To avoid injury to persons or animals, and damage to property, never run R/C models in a confined or crowded area.
Be aware of your surroundings. Avoid running models in environment where noise can cause displeasure.
Never run models near heat and open flame as it can cause serious accidents.
Running models into furniture or other inanimate objects will cause damage to the objects and the model.
Make sure that no one else is using the same frequency as yours in your operating area. Using the same frequency at the same time, whether it is driving, flying, or sailing, can cause loss of control of the models, resulting in serious accidents.
*Use only glow fuel. Never use gasoline or other fuel as it can explode and burn, causing serious personal injury and/or accidents. Read the warning on product prior to use. Improper use of glow fuel could result in serious injury and/or property damage. You are solely responsible for the safe use of the product.
HEAT, FIRE AND FUEL SAFETY
*Vehicle components such as engine, muffler, etc., get very hot during running and can cause burns it touched.
*Do not touch any of the moving parts, such as drive shafts, wheels, gears, etc. as these rotating parts can cause serious injury.
*Use only glow engine fuel. Never use gasoline or other fuels as they can explode and burn, causing serious personal injury and/or property damage. Use fuel only in a well ventilated area. Keep away from heat and flame. Never fuel or prime with battery connected to engine. Glow fuels are poisonous. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Keep away from children.
AVOIDING LOSS OF CONTROL
Top speeds of glow engined cars exceed 50km/h and can be very dangerous if control is lost. Tamiya’s Fail-Safe Unit (Item No.45017) can help prevent control loss. The central processing unit of this system is programmed to continuously monitor pulse signals from the receiver. When radio interference or noise is detected, or the receiver battery voltage becomes insufficient, the unit automatically returns the servos to their neutral position,
preventing loss of control.
http://www.rcecho.com/GLOW-ENGINED-R-C-CAR.html
Tamiya's glow engine powered radio control models allow you to enjoy the fascination of internal combustion powerplant operation at work. Maximum performance is ensured by using high quality, reliable glow engine components. Add these to the superbly designed chassis and suspension, and you have Tamiya’s new dimension in glow engine enjoyment.
*NOTE: This is a scale model using an internal combustion engine, and is suitable for modelers 14 years of age and older. It is not a toy.
1. RADIO CONTROL SYSTEMS FOR ENGINED CARS
A 2-channel 2-servo radio system with a receiver battery case, is standard. One servo controls steering, while the other controls throttle and braking. Refer to the safety instructions included with the radio for proper use.
ITEMS REQUIRED FOR STARTING ENGINE
In addition to glow fuel, several other items are required for starting a glow engine. A fuel filler, battery for glow plug and a cable/clip to connect the battery to the glow plug.
2. ABOUT GLOW ENGINES
Two-stroke glow engines are known for their simple and reliable mechanics. Fuel and air is
mixed in carburetor, drawn into the cylinder, compressed and ignited by the glow plug. The explosion (combustion) translated into workable power via the crankshaft. The correct ratio of fuel/air mixture is essential to keep the engine running properly.
GLOW ENGINE COMPONENTS
ABOUT ENGINE COMPONENTS
*CARBURETOR
The carburetor is the engine component that mixes the fuel and air to the proper ratio and atomizes it. The throttle adjusts the amount of fuel/air mixture available to the cylinder. An open throttle allows more intake of the mixture, resulting in increased engine RPM and a higher running speed.
*GLOW PLUG
The heated glow plug filament ignites the compressed air/fuel mixture in the cylinder, producing combustion, which forces down the piston. This rotates the crankshaft, and the cycle is repeated. The glow plug, once heated, is kept hot by the repeated combustion cycle.
*RECOIL STARTER
The recoil zip starter is a manual method of starting a glow engine by pulling the rope handle in quick succession, forcing the crankshaft to rapidly rotate. The rope automatically rewinds by the recoil spring in the casing. An electric starter is also offered with some models that use an electric motor for engine start.
*CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH
A centrifugal clutch remains disengaged until the engine reaches a specified RPM. This g keeps the car from jumping out when the engine is first started, and at idle. When the proper RPM is reached (by advancing the throttle), the clutch engages and power is transmitted to the transmission.
3. BRAKE UNIT
Most full sized automobiles use the disc idle has stabilized, remove glow plug brake system, and it is also used on Ft/C glow cable/clip and return throttle trim to its engined models to reduce speed; however, the model car system is synchronized with throttle servo movement. The brake is activated when engine power is reduced by moving the transmitter control stick back, or the trigger forward.
4. GLOW ENGINE FUEL
Use only the specified glow engine fuel for your R/C model. Glow fuels contain Methanol and Nitro Methane for combustion, plus lubricant for engine protection.
*A higher ratio of Nitro Methane can produce higher power output, but will result in engine starting difficulties.
5. ENGINE STARTING PROCEDURE
The standard procedure for starting glow engines is described below. Always refer to the
instructions included with your engine and/or model for correct procedure.
6. STOPPING ENGINE
Engine can be stopped by removing the air cleaner and closing off air intake or blocking exhaust; however, fuel remaining in engine tank could damage internal components. It is therefore recommended that the engine be run at idle until it runs out of fuel.
7.UNING TIPS FOR GLOW ENGINED R/C CARS
Adjustment of chassis components, such as suspension etc. are common with electric and glow engine powered cars. Several points unique to glow engined R/C cars are discussed below.
IMPROVING RELIABILITY AND ENDURANCE
Overheating is often a problem with glow engines. To reduce this, cut air intake openings in the body shell to help cool the engine. Replace the engine's heat sink with a larger or more efficient one. Sand and/or debris in the fuel can damage internal engine parts. Install a fuel filter to prevent this.
FOR QUICKER ENGINE RESPONSE
Glow engines produce usable torque after sufficient RPM is reached (ie. low torque at low RPM). By using a lighter weight flywheel, the time required to reach high RPM is shortened. This provides quicker throttle response, improving acceleration. Make sure to adjust the engine’s needle valve and idle setting after replacing a flywheel.
BETTER BRAKING
Just like full sized vehicies, a glow engine car is equipped with a braking system. Brakes are used often during running and wear following prolonged use. Replace worn parts when required. Larger diameter brake disks, or ones of composite material are available for some cars, which provide better braking.
OBTAINING A HIGHER ENGINE OUTPUT
it is not recommended to modify the engine’s cylinder or piston, as this requires a high degree of knowledge, experience and facilities. An easier way to obtain more power is to use a glow fuel of higher specifications. Race oriented fuels include a higher Nitro Methane content and are on the market. However, always refer to your engine's instructions and use its recommended fuel.
TO AVOID RUNNING OUT OF FUEL
Even though refueling is not difficult, sudden stops clue to fuel starvation should be avoided. To aid in this, a fuel level indicator is available from Tamiya for their glow engined Ft/C cars. A sensor monitors fuel level in the tank, and when low, a light emitting diode glows alerting time to refuel.
8. MAINTENANCE
Glow engined cars get soiled from oil residue after running, due to the lubricants used in the fuel. Daily clean-up and maintenance is essential for optimum performance.
CLEANING CHASSlS
To remove the oily residue from chassis components, an alcoholic cleaning spray is recommended. Several types are available from hobby shops; however, use only the cleaner developed for model use as other types could attack the plastic and rubber components.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
The engine's internal components are exposed to high heat, pressure and exhaust gases during operation. If left uncleaned, the oily grime can cause rust and corrosion inside the engine. Use an oil spray for cleaning. Remove the glow plug and spray directly into the cylinder and carburetor after running.
*Vehicle components such as engine, muffler, exhaust pipe etc. get very hot during use and can cause burns if touched. Allow to cool before cleaning and maintenance.
CHECKING GLOW PLUG
The glow plug is also subject to high temperatures and pressure. Periodically check and replace when necessary. To check the plug, remove it from the engine and connect it to the battery with the cable/clip. The filament should glow a bright red if good.
AIR FILTER
A clogged air filter hinders the supply of air to the engine, resulting in lowered performance. Periodically check and replace the air filter element when necessary.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
To avoid serious personal injury and/or property damage, operate all remotely controlled models in a responsible manner as out-lined below. Be aware of your surroundings when operating any model.
Never run models near people or animals, nor use people or animals as obstacles when operating vehicles.
Never run Fl/C models on the street or highway, as it could cause or contribute to serious traffic accidents.
To avoid injury to persons or animals, and damage to property, never run R/C models in a confined or crowded area.
Be aware of your surroundings. Avoid running models in environment where noise can cause displeasure.
Never run models near heat and open flame as it can cause serious accidents.
Running models into furniture or other inanimate objects will cause damage to the objects and the model.
Make sure that no one else is using the same frequency as yours in your operating area. Using the same frequency at the same time, whether it is driving, flying, or sailing, can cause loss of control of the models, resulting in serious accidents.
*Use only glow fuel. Never use gasoline or other fuel as it can explode and burn, causing serious personal injury and/or accidents. Read the warning on product prior to use. Improper use of glow fuel could result in serious injury and/or property damage. You are solely responsible for the safe use of the product.
HEAT, FIRE AND FUEL SAFETY
*Vehicle components such as engine, muffler, etc., get very hot during running and can cause burns it touched.
*Do not touch any of the moving parts, such as drive shafts, wheels, gears, etc. as these rotating parts can cause serious injury.
*Use only glow engine fuel. Never use gasoline or other fuels as they can explode and burn, causing serious personal injury and/or property damage. Use fuel only in a well ventilated area. Keep away from heat and flame. Never fuel or prime with battery connected to engine. Glow fuels are poisonous. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Keep away from children.
AVOIDING LOSS OF CONTROL
Top speeds of glow engined cars exceed 50km/h and can be very dangerous if control is lost. Tamiya’s Fail-Safe Unit (Item No.45017) can help prevent control loss. The central processing unit of this system is programmed to continuously monitor pulse signals from the receiver. When radio interference or noise is detected, or the receiver battery voltage becomes insufficient, the unit automatically returns the servos to their neutral position,
preventing loss of control.
http://www.rcecho.com/GLOW-ENGINED-R-C-CAR.html
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
PAINTING & DECORATION OF R/C CAR BODIES
PAINTING & DECORATION OF R/C CAR BODIES
A large part of WC car enjoyment is in their construction and running; however, final finishing and decoration can also provide great pleasure. Decorating and finishing is not only self satisfying, but an essential part of the hobby. A beautifully finished car even seems to go faster, and if it has been modified or customized, it will stand apart from the others.
1. PAINTING BODIES
Painting the body shell is the most important single step in finishing the car model.
Two types of bodies are used on R/C vehicles. Injection molded styrene plastic resin or vacuum formed transparent polycarbonate (Lexan) body shells. The usable paints and working procedures are very different between these two types of bodies.
SOME PRACTCAL ADVICE ON PAINTING
Plastic paints use organic solvents, and can be harmful if improperly handled. Observe and follow the manufacturers rules for safe use and a good finish on the model.
Ventilate while painting
Allow adequate ventilation in the painting area while working.
Avoid open flames
Some paints and thinners are inflammable. Never use them near open flame.
Paint on a clear day with low humidity
High humidity can cause a cloudy finish (blushing) on the painted surface. if possible, paint on a clear day to avoid this problem.
Spray paint outdoors in a windless area
A spray can delivers a fine mist of paint that coats wide areas evenly. Spray paint outdoors in a shady, windless area. Use a cardboard box, newspapers, etc. to keep paint off the surrounding areas.
PAINTS AND RELATED ITEMS REQUIRED
Paints for injection molded bodies
Standard plastic model paints, like enamels, acrylics, and lacquers, can be used in painting injection molded car bodies.
Paints for polycarbonate bodies
Specially formulated polycarbonate‘ paints are required for painting these transparent body shells. Conventional plastic paints easily peel or chip off, even with the slightest shock to the car body.
Some kits include separately molded plastic parts such as the driver’s helmet, spoiler, door mirrors, etc., which are added to the polycarbonate body. These plastic parts must be painted with regular plastic paints and not polycarbonate paint.
Brushes and other implements
Paint brushes come in several shapes and sizes, such as flat or pointed brushes. In addition, you will need the following when painting: Paint thinner compatible with your paint, empty paint jars or trays, masking tape, scissors, a modeling knife, clips or clothespins, rags and newspapers, etc.
PAINTING INJECTED MOLDED BODIES
The highly detailed and lifelike bodies are injection molded from styrene plastic resin. They are heavier and are more easily damaged in collisions at the track. Standard plastic paints are used in painting these bodies.
Preparation
1. A subassembly to be painted in one color should be assembled prior to painting. Remove excess cement, fill in and clean up joints and seam lines. Smooth the entire surface using a modeling knife and fine abrasive papers.
2. Remove all dust and oil from the parts. Wash them in a mild detergent, and rinse well, allowing to air dry. Objects to be painted should be secured to a base so that you have access to all areas to be painted. For example, make a loop of tape, with the adhesive on the outside, then secure the body to an empty box or can. Small parts should be painted while still on the plastic tree, or by holding with a clip.
Painting procedures
First paint the body overall. Add small details after the first coat has completely cured. Spray paint the large areas and brush paint the details.
Tips on spray painting
Shake the spray can well prior to Use. Test spray to see if it is properly mixed.
Spray in one direction only, from a distance about 30cm from the model.
Always use a light coat over the entire surface, and allow to dry. Repeat this procedure or three times for a perfect finish.
When the distance between the can and model is too close, or too thick of a coat is applied, the paint will run or contain small air bubbles. In these cases, let the paint dry for two or three days, then sand off using abrasive paper. Clean and smooth the surface and respray.
Tips on brush painting
Thoroughly stir bottle paints using a metal or grass rod prior to application. Do not shake the bottle, as this causes bubbles.
Select a suitable brush size according the area to be painted. Use flat brushes for areas and pointed brushes for details.
Move the brush in one direction only. When the coat has fully dried, another coat applied in a different direction can be for an even finish. paint is too thick, add the exclusive for a smoother application.
Masking
When more than one color is to be applied, the use of masking tape is necessary. Use only a high grade, thin paper tape. Remember the golden rule when painting outside surfaces. Paint light colors first, followed by the darker colors.
For curved and irregular borders
If the edge between the two colors is curved or irregular, cover the area with tape and draw the edge line on the tape sharpened pencil. Using a sharp modeling knife, cut away the tape from where the edges are to meet. Be careful not to out the body.
Some tips on masking
When masking tape is not properly applied, paint will run under the tape and mar the surface. Press the masking tape down firmly with a finger nail for good tape adhesion. Special attention must be paid to recessed body panel lines, projections and undulating surfaces, plus edges and corners of a body, if these areas are masked.
Cautions when overcoating
Experienced modelers and professionals of- ten use different types of paints to obtain better results. When doing this however, you must accept the fact that you cannot use lacquer paints over acrylics or enamels. The solvents in lacquer will melt and damage coat ing of other paints.
PAINTING POLYCERBONATE (LEXAN) BODIES
Mask off the window areas
Windows of car bodies should remain transparent, so masking is required. Mask from the inside using paper tape. Some kits include masking seals for the car’s windows when painting.
Paint the details first
As paints are applied from the inside, but viewed from the outside, the first coat will be the outermost color on the finished model.
You must be careful when considering the order of painting colors. Color application should start with the details, just the opposite from painting styrene bodies.
Paint darker colors first
When more than one color is to be used, apply the darker color first. The masking procedure is also done in reverse.
If a lighter color is applied first, followed by a darker color, the overcoated area of the first color will be darkened when viewed from the outside.
AlRBRUSH PAINTING
Airbrushing combines the advantages of both brush and spray cans. By utilizing its features, a variety of painting effects can be achieved.
Paints can be mixed to make custom shades
Airbrushing uses bottle paints, so blending and matching colors to your desires is easy.
Fine lines can be done
Airbrush painting is done by spraying misted paint onto the surface, just like spray cans. However, airbrushes can spray lines of about 1-3cm and even down to 1mm in some cases. By using this characteristics, professional effects, such as subtle gradations, camouflage painting, or using it just like a paint brush. is possible.
NECESSARY ITEMS
An airbrush system consists of the handpiece, compressor, and the connecting hose. Propellant cans can be used instead of a compressor, but their duration time is limited, and they must be disposed of when empty. ln the long term, a compressor will be more economical than cans.
Tamiya’s “Spray-Work” portable airbrush system uses a Ni-Cd 7.2V battery as its power source. It can also be operated from household current, using a compatible AC adapter.
2. MARKINGS
Decal and stickers are another important aspect in finishing car bodies. In addition to kitsupplied stickers, a wide selection of optional stickers is available on the market. One of a kind markings can also be made using selfadhesive sticker sheets.
TIPS FOR APPLYING STICKERS
Although the application seems easy, wrinkled or out-of-position stickers mar a model’s final finish. Completely removing the backing from the sticker prior to application will result in wrinkles or bubbles. Follow these procedures:
3. MORE DETAIL AND CUSTOMIZING
Add details and customize your can to build the one-of-a-kind model.
Your imagination is the limit. Add a visor to your drivers helmet using thin transparent sheet styrene. Cut out a photo of your favorite driver from a magazine and glue it in the helmet. Make openings in the front grille, air intakes, etc. and apply plastic mesh from the inside. You can operate your car’s headlights and tail lamps by using optional light bulbs and brake lamp units available on the market. However, make sure they have compatible voltage ratings with your battery.
http://www.rcecho.com/PAINTING-DECORATION-OF-R-C-CAR-BODIES.html
A large part of WC car enjoyment is in their construction and running; however, final finishing and decoration can also provide great pleasure. Decorating and finishing is not only self satisfying, but an essential part of the hobby. A beautifully finished car even seems to go faster, and if it has been modified or customized, it will stand apart from the others.
1. PAINTING BODIES
Painting the body shell is the most important single step in finishing the car model.
Two types of bodies are used on R/C vehicles. Injection molded styrene plastic resin or vacuum formed transparent polycarbonate (Lexan) body shells. The usable paints and working procedures are very different between these two types of bodies.
SOME PRACTCAL ADVICE ON PAINTING
Plastic paints use organic solvents, and can be harmful if improperly handled. Observe and follow the manufacturers rules for safe use and a good finish on the model.
Ventilate while painting
Allow adequate ventilation in the painting area while working.
Avoid open flames
Some paints and thinners are inflammable. Never use them near open flame.
Paint on a clear day with low humidity
High humidity can cause a cloudy finish (blushing) on the painted surface. if possible, paint on a clear day to avoid this problem.
Spray paint outdoors in a windless area
A spray can delivers a fine mist of paint that coats wide areas evenly. Spray paint outdoors in a shady, windless area. Use a cardboard box, newspapers, etc. to keep paint off the surrounding areas.
PAINTS AND RELATED ITEMS REQUIRED
Paints for injection molded bodies
Standard plastic model paints, like enamels, acrylics, and lacquers, can be used in painting injection molded car bodies.
Paints for polycarbonate bodies
Specially formulated polycarbonate‘ paints are required for painting these transparent body shells. Conventional plastic paints easily peel or chip off, even with the slightest shock to the car body.
Some kits include separately molded plastic parts such as the driver’s helmet, spoiler, door mirrors, etc., which are added to the polycarbonate body. These plastic parts must be painted with regular plastic paints and not polycarbonate paint.
Brushes and other implements
Paint brushes come in several shapes and sizes, such as flat or pointed brushes. In addition, you will need the following when painting: Paint thinner compatible with your paint, empty paint jars or trays, masking tape, scissors, a modeling knife, clips or clothespins, rags and newspapers, etc.
PAINTING INJECTED MOLDED BODIES
The highly detailed and lifelike bodies are injection molded from styrene plastic resin. They are heavier and are more easily damaged in collisions at the track. Standard plastic paints are used in painting these bodies.
Preparation
1. A subassembly to be painted in one color should be assembled prior to painting. Remove excess cement, fill in and clean up joints and seam lines. Smooth the entire surface using a modeling knife and fine abrasive papers.
2. Remove all dust and oil from the parts. Wash them in a mild detergent, and rinse well, allowing to air dry. Objects to be painted should be secured to a base so that you have access to all areas to be painted. For example, make a loop of tape, with the adhesive on the outside, then secure the body to an empty box or can. Small parts should be painted while still on the plastic tree, or by holding with a clip.
Painting procedures
First paint the body overall. Add small details after the first coat has completely cured. Spray paint the large areas and brush paint the details.
Tips on spray painting
Shake the spray can well prior to Use. Test spray to see if it is properly mixed.
Spray in one direction only, from a distance about 30cm from the model.
Always use a light coat over the entire surface, and allow to dry. Repeat this procedure or three times for a perfect finish.
When the distance between the can and model is too close, or too thick of a coat is applied, the paint will run or contain small air bubbles. In these cases, let the paint dry for two or three days, then sand off using abrasive paper. Clean and smooth the surface and respray.
Tips on brush painting
Thoroughly stir bottle paints using a metal or grass rod prior to application. Do not shake the bottle, as this causes bubbles.
Select a suitable brush size according the area to be painted. Use flat brushes for areas and pointed brushes for details.
Move the brush in one direction only. When the coat has fully dried, another coat applied in a different direction can be for an even finish. paint is too thick, add the exclusive for a smoother application.
Masking
When more than one color is to be applied, the use of masking tape is necessary. Use only a high grade, thin paper tape. Remember the golden rule when painting outside surfaces. Paint light colors first, followed by the darker colors.
For curved and irregular borders
If the edge between the two colors is curved or irregular, cover the area with tape and draw the edge line on the tape sharpened pencil. Using a sharp modeling knife, cut away the tape from where the edges are to meet. Be careful not to out the body.
Some tips on masking
When masking tape is not properly applied, paint will run under the tape and mar the surface. Press the masking tape down firmly with a finger nail for good tape adhesion. Special attention must be paid to recessed body panel lines, projections and undulating surfaces, plus edges and corners of a body, if these areas are masked.
Cautions when overcoating
Experienced modelers and professionals of- ten use different types of paints to obtain better results. When doing this however, you must accept the fact that you cannot use lacquer paints over acrylics or enamels. The solvents in lacquer will melt and damage coat ing of other paints.
PAINTING POLYCERBONATE (LEXAN) BODIES
Mask off the window areas
Windows of car bodies should remain transparent, so masking is required. Mask from the inside using paper tape. Some kits include masking seals for the car’s windows when painting.
Paint the details first
As paints are applied from the inside, but viewed from the outside, the first coat will be the outermost color on the finished model.
You must be careful when considering the order of painting colors. Color application should start with the details, just the opposite from painting styrene bodies.
Paint darker colors first
When more than one color is to be used, apply the darker color first. The masking procedure is also done in reverse.
If a lighter color is applied first, followed by a darker color, the overcoated area of the first color will be darkened when viewed from the outside.
AlRBRUSH PAINTING
Airbrushing combines the advantages of both brush and spray cans. By utilizing its features, a variety of painting effects can be achieved.
Paints can be mixed to make custom shades
Airbrushing uses bottle paints, so blending and matching colors to your desires is easy.
Fine lines can be done
Airbrush painting is done by spraying misted paint onto the surface, just like spray cans. However, airbrushes can spray lines of about 1-3cm and even down to 1mm in some cases. By using this characteristics, professional effects, such as subtle gradations, camouflage painting, or using it just like a paint brush. is possible.
NECESSARY ITEMS
An airbrush system consists of the handpiece, compressor, and the connecting hose. Propellant cans can be used instead of a compressor, but their duration time is limited, and they must be disposed of when empty. ln the long term, a compressor will be more economical than cans.
Tamiya’s “Spray-Work” portable airbrush system uses a Ni-Cd 7.2V battery as its power source. It can also be operated from household current, using a compatible AC adapter.
2. MARKINGS
Decal and stickers are another important aspect in finishing car bodies. In addition to kitsupplied stickers, a wide selection of optional stickers is available on the market. One of a kind markings can also be made using selfadhesive sticker sheets.
TIPS FOR APPLYING STICKERS
Although the application seems easy, wrinkled or out-of-position stickers mar a model’s final finish. Completely removing the backing from the sticker prior to application will result in wrinkles or bubbles. Follow these procedures:
3. MORE DETAIL AND CUSTOMIZING
Add details and customize your can to build the one-of-a-kind model.
Your imagination is the limit. Add a visor to your drivers helmet using thin transparent sheet styrene. Cut out a photo of your favorite driver from a magazine and glue it in the helmet. Make openings in the front grille, air intakes, etc. and apply plastic mesh from the inside. You can operate your car’s headlights and tail lamps by using optional light bulbs and brake lamp units available on the market. However, make sure they have compatible voltage ratings with your battery.
http://www.rcecho.com/PAINTING-DECORATION-OF-R-C-CAR-BODIES.html
Monday, March 12, 2012
CHARACTERIZING A CAR form Tamiya guide book
CHARACTERIZING A CAR
There are a variety of car characters fast cars, cars with excellent acceleration, cars with good cornering capability, and so forth. Cars assembled from kits come out diversified in quality because they are built up through the assembler’s own techniques. Build your car in your own way. The most apparent characterizations are formed in the gear ratio and the steering characteristics.
1. GEAR RATIO SETTING
At a given output power of the motor or engine, the maximum speed and acceleration capabilities are determined by the gear ratio. The gear ratio means how many rotations of the pinion gear are required for one rotation of the drive wheel. This is generally adjusted by altering the pinion gear to one with a different teeth number.
RELATION BETWEEN THE GEAR RATIO AND SPEED/ACCELERATION
You will have a higher gear ratio with a smaller pinion gear (smaller number of teeth) and a larger gear on the rear axle. The opposite makes a low gear ratio. With a high gear ratio, the car has a better acceleration capability, but a limited maximum speed. A car with a low gear ratio has poor acceleration but a higher maximum speed.
A car with a low gear ratio has poor acceleration but a higher maximum speed.
A car with high gear ratio is suitable for a technical course which is built with hair pin curves demanding low speed driving, while a car with a low gear ratio is for a speed course consisting of longer straightaways and curves of larger radii.
*A too low of a gear ratio will overload the motor/engine, resulting in overheating and eventual burn-out.
GEAR RATIO AND RUNNING TIME
In general, the higher the gear ratio is, the longer the running time, and vice-versa. When entering a time race such as a 4-minute or 8-minute competition, a suitable gear ratio to complete the race must be chosen. In endurance competitions, the gear ratio influences times of battery change or refuelling.
GEAR RATIO SUITABLE TO THE MOTOR/ENGINE
A wide range of optional pinion gears are on the market for many variations in the gear ratio settings. You should always bear in mind that motors and engines have their own power output characteristics and effective power range. If the motor or engine is replaced with one with higher performance, replacement of the pinion gear will also be required to obtain a suitable gear ratio. The diagrams below indicates suitable pinion gear for Tamiya electric cars and motors.
GEAR RATIO SETTING PROCEDURE
Start from a large gear ratio (small pinion gear teeth number) and move to smaller gear ratios. Check lap times on a track or running time and select a suitable gear ratio for the track.
DRIVE WHEEL DIAMETER
The diameter of the drive wheels are also related to the speed and acceleration characteristics. The larger the diameter of the drive wheels is, the higher the speed of the car will develop within certain limitations.
*Attaching too large a diameter of wheels will overload the motor/engine and resulting in overheating and burn-out.
2. UNDER STEERING AND OVER STEERING (STEERING TENDENCY)
When the steering wheel is turned, the car will also turn in the same direction. However, most cars have the tendency to turn excessively or inadequately. These characteristics are called steering traits. Cars that turn excessively have over steering traits and the others have under steering traits. Cars that turn in close proportion to the control have neutral steering. This is hardly achieved except with cars that are running at a low speed.
A car with under steering is easy to drive. A car with over steering will spin when taking corners high speed. Even on a straight course, it An under steering car has difficulty making sharp turns, and at a high speed it may not be able to take corners and could leave the course. In either case, excessive steering makes a car difficult to control.
MOTOR/PINION GEAR CHART (ACCORDING TO CHASSIS)
FACTORS TO DETERMINE STEERING CHARACTERISTICS
The steering characteristics are affected by the difference between the traction of the front and rear tires. When the traction of the front tires is greater than that of the rear tires, the result is over steering. The opposite condition causes under steering. Therefore, adjust the traction of the rear tires so that it is a little greater. You will attain a slight degree of under steering.
The traction of a tire is determined by the following factors. By adjusting these, the steering tendency of a car can be altered.
3. CHOOSING TIRES
Motor/engine power is transmitted to the ground via tires, and a car’s stability during running is also greatly affected by the tire’s traction. Choosing suitable tires is a very important point in the car’s setting.
Two types of tires are used on cars; synthetic rubber semi-pneumatic tires and sponge tires. In addition, tires of various materials, widths, tread patterns etc. are available for broad range of settings.
*The diagram above indicates the grip of Tamiya optional tires. The tire grip may differ depending upon the track surface condition, temperature, etc.
ON-ROAD TIRES
Both sponge and semi-pneumatic tires are used for on-road track running. In case of sponge tires, sponges of different stiffness are used to obtain different traction. Special synthetic rubber caps are sometimes used to cover the surface of sponge tires (these are
called “capped tires”). Semi-pneumatic tires for on-road running are roughly divided into the treadless slicks or treaded tires. These are sometimes used in combination with inner sponges.
Reinforced tires are used on M-chassis, F-1, GT and oars. Furthermore two—types of reinforced tires, A-type and B type are prepared for F-1 and GT cars according to circuit temperature. A-type is resistant to changing temperature. Special material is used on B-type for high-grip under high-temperature conditions.
COMPARISON BETWEEN A-TYPE & B-TYPE
EFFECT OF INNER SPONGE
Inner sponge and insert provide even contact between the tire and ground relation, and are effective in increasing overall traction. Insert is ring-shaped synthetic rubber foam to fit the cavity between wheel and tire. Without the inner sponge, the car’s weight is carried by side walls of the tires. Therefore tire edges are liable to wear. Inner sponge helps these problems, by providing an even contact of the tire surface to the ground.
Belt-shaped inner sponge, inner foam and ring-shaped insert are prepared. We supply standard and hard types as inner sponge, standard and soft types as ring-shaped insert. We recommend to use foam and reinforced slicks type-A together for more efficiency.
SECURING TIRE
It’s important to secure semi-pneumatic rubber tires to the wheels. In that case, tire-c:ementing helper is useful. Just set tire into the inside of helper, then hold it down to make a gap between tire and wheel. Now, apply instant cement between them. We recommend to use TAMIYA CA cement (for rubber tires). TAMIYA CA cement (fot ruber tires).
OFF-ROAD TIRES
Semi-pneumatic tires are mainly used for offroad cars. Tires with various spikes and tread patterns are available. These spikes and patpatterns provide positive traction while running on rough terrain. Choose tires according to
the running surface. Semi-pneumatic off-road tires can be combined with inner sponges when necessary.
4. SUSPENSION SETTING
On full-sized vehicles, the suspension is important in providing a comfortable ride to passengers. On cars, its main objective is to keep the wheels on the ground and maintain constant traction to obtain the maximum maneuverability.
A GOOD SUSPENSION PROVIDES TRACK-HUGGING PERFORMANCE
In order to run a radio controlled model smoothly and swiftly over differing road conditions, the suspension system that joins the wheels to the chassis plays an important role. Various types of suspension systems are used for buggies and on road cars to obtain maximum traction from the tires on the running surface.
SPRING AND DAMPER STIFFNESS ARE IMPORTANT
Suspension systems such as double wishbone, and trailing arm type are used on model cars just as on full sized vehicles. These are basically composed of upper and lower arms, coil springs, and damper units that absorb the energy stored in the spring upon compression. A simple 3-point suspension system is often used on the Formulatype on-road cars. In this case, front wheels are independently damped by coil springs, while the rear wheels are damped by a single shock unit. When adjusting suspension systems to track conditions, first adjust the coil spring stiffness, then the damper.
COIL SPRING ADJUSTMENTS
Coil springs fitted to suspension units are there to assist the suspension in following the surface it’s running on. It is a mechanical device that stores and dissipates shock energy to keep the car running steadily on the track. A too stiff spring results in an uncontrolled suspension that will cause the car to hop around wildly. If it’s too soft, the car will bottom out on the ground at each bump on the track. Springs should be adjusted according to the overall weight that compresses them. The coil springs included in the kits are designed and matched to the car, and should provide standard performance. If the car is modified and trimmed for lighter weight, use a softer spring.
Springs should be stiffened using spacers, after installing higher output motors, in order to compensate for the extra power. Using stiffer springs on rough terrain and softer springs on flat tracks is the normal rule.
ADJUST DAMPER ACCORDING TO SPRING STIFFNESS
The dampers widely used in cars are of the oil filled type. The higher the viscosity of the damper oil, the stiffer the damper, on the other hand, the lower the viscosity, the softer the damper. When using hard springs use harder damper oil, and for soft springs use softer damper oil.
OIL FILLED SHOCK UNITS
From the economical and long-wear plastic cylinders to competition low-friction aluminum cylinders, Tamiya offers a wide range of high performance oil filled shocks to meet your car’s requirement. All shock units are designed to provide the smoothest shock action while providing optimum road hugging ability to the vehicle. Adjustments can be made at the coil springs and pistons to compensate for the different track conditions. Oil viscosity can be altered by using the Tamiya Silicone Damper Oil set, to obtain the best possible performance.
*Shock unit dimensions differ according to the vehicle. Refer to illustration and notes.
TAMIYA SILICONE DAMPER OIL
Tamiya’s quality Silicone Damper Oil is developed exclusively for oil filled shock units used on car * models. It is formulated to maintain constant viscosity throughout
a wide temperature range. 3 sets; soft, medium and hard, are available with each set consisting 2 bottles of different viscosity oil. Select oil according to your track requirements.
FRICTION DAMPERS
This damping system is used on some on road racing cars. Several discs and pads are overlaid and damping effect is obtained by their friction. By applying oil or grease to the pads, the damping effect can be adjusted. Oils and greases of different viscosities are on the market for this purpose.
STABILIZER
During high speed cornering, a car tends to roll or incline outward, resulting in less traction of the inner wheels and causing instability of the car. Stabilizers are used to reduce the roll, and it contributes in improving the car’s overall maneuverability.
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CAR'S SUSPENSION SETTING
Place your car on a flat surface, and if its damper springs are slightly compressed with the car’s weight, spring stiffness is set correctly. Press the car down to the ground and release. If the car rises smoothly (not instantly), an adequate damping is obtained. For off road cars, drop the car to the ground from a height of about 30cm. If the setting is acceptable, the car will not bump or its bottom does not hit the ground because the dampers absorb shock. Of course, the final adjustment must be done while test running the car.
5. WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION BETWEEN WHEELS
The heavier the load carried by a wheel, the more traction it has because more pressure to the ground is produced. Thus, the weight distribution between the front and rear wheels greatly influences the car’s handling characteristics. Generally, the distribution ratio between the front and rear is from 35:65 to 45:55. Adjust weight distribution by moving heavy components such as Ni-Cd battery to the desired direction. Front or rear wheel load can be roughly checked by the method described below.
6. WING & SPOILER
The wing attached on many racing cars is employed to gain stability at high speed running. With your radio controlled cars, the rear wing is used to press down the rear wheels for improving the traction on the road. In this way, the gripping power of the rear wheel becomes greater than that of the front wheels and the steering trait changes toward understeering. The faster the car goes, the more effective the wing becomes, that is, the greater the down thrust on the rear wheels. Depending upon the way you adjust the wing, the car can have an excellent cornering characteristics on a low speed curve, but still keep superb stability on the high speed straights.
Such a car, also, will show a good adhesion to the road at high speed running. The effect of the wing is lessened when the wing is flattened. The more it is lifted, the greater the down-force. However, it increases the air drag, too, and the velocity of the car is slowed. Therefore, the adjustment of the wing must be made carefully, and with the proper adjustment an ideal maneuverability will be attained.
A LARGE WING WILL INCREASE AIR DRAG
The larger and the more angled a wing is, the more downward force is produced during running by the air flow. However, a too large or too steep wing will produce more air drag than desired, resulting in reduced speed of the car. The position of a wing/spoiler also influences its effectiveness. If attached at front, it increases the traction of the front wheels, and vice-versa.
DOWNFORCE DIFFERS ACCORDING TO RUNNING SPEED
Wings and spoilers produce more downward force during running, as the car’s speed comes faster. If a car has an oversteer tendency, use a large, steep angled rear wing. During high speed running, it will produce more downforce and augment its rear wheel traction, thus understeering characteristics can be obtained. When the speed becomes low, the effect of the wing lessens, and the car recovers its original oversteer characteristics.
MOUNT THE WING FIRMLY
lf a wing is mounted to the chassis with a flexible stay, the downforce produced by the wing cannot be effectively utilized by the car. Some cars’ wings are mounted directly onto their polycarbonate body shell. In such cases, the body itself should be firmly secured to the chassis.
7. WHEEL ALIJGNMENT
This is the term for indicating under what condition the wheels are attached to the chassis. Typical factors are toe angles, caster angles and camber angles, which plays portant roles in car settings.
TOE ANGLE
This term indicates the wheels on the both sides are parallel or inclined when viewed from above. If they are inclined forward, it is called “toe-in”, and if inclined rearward, they are in a “toe-out” setting. lf they are parallel to each other, they are neutral. Toe angles on the front wheels can be adjusted by altering the length of the steering tie-rods. In addition to the standard adjustable tie-rods, turnbuckle tie-rods are available which allow quick and easy adjustment of the length without removal of the rod. Rear wheel toe-angle is adjustable on some cars, but in most cases, replacement of suspension arms etc. will be required. Take care not to set an excessive toe-in or toe-out, otherwise the resulting drag will hinder the handling of the car. Begin with a little toe-in and work from there.
CASTER ANGLE
This angle indicates how much the king pin on the front upright is inclined rearward from the vertical. Generally, a larger caster angle improves the car’s straight running stability. However, with a large caster angle, the front wheels become slanted when steered. This may result in reduced traction during cornering and an uneven wear to the tire tread.
CAMBER ANGLE
This is the angle of the right and left wheels when viewed from the front or rear. If the wheels incline inward to the top, it is in negative camber. lf inclined outward to the top,
they have a positive camber. The camber angie detemrines the area of contact on each tire during cornering, and therefore the traction of the tires can be made greater or lesser through its adjustments. To increase traction during cornering, adjust to negative, and for reducing traction, adjust to positive. The steering characteristics can be changed by altering the traction of the front and rear tires. The car can be made to oversteer with the front adjusted to negative camber and the rear to positive. To cause the car to understeer, adjust front to positive camber and rear to negative. Camber angle adjustment is done by altering the length of the suspension upper arms. Use of turnbuckle shafts on upper arms allows quick camber angle adjustments.
8. WHEELBASE AND TREAD (TRACK)
Wheelbase is the distance between the car’s front and rear axles. Tread or track means the distance between the left and right wheels. If the tread is the same, a car with longer wheelbase has better straight running stability and reduced cornering performance. If the wheelbase is the same, a wider tread provides quicker cornering. Cars which have adjustable wheelbase are not common, but in some cases, this can be done by adding spacers or replacing chassis members, etc. Tread can be altered by using wider or narrower wheels or of different offsets. When doing this, you should be careful so that the wheels do not contact the body shell, and also within the limits of race regulations in which you are participating.
9. DIFFERENTIAL GEARING
When the car is turning, the distance travelled by the inside wheels is less than that of the outside wheels. The differential gearing provides a smoother cornering performance by absorbing these differences by altering the rotating speed of each wheel. Without the differential, a car is apt to make big turns or take corners awkwardly.
BEVEL GEAR DIFFERENTIAL
This differential system is used on both the full-sized vehicles and R/C cars. During straight running and if both the left and right wheels contact with the ground, the differential does not work and the motor/engine power is transmitted to both wheels evenly. When cornering, the bevel gears in the differential unit rotate according to the travel of the left or right wheels, thus absorbing the difference of their rotation. One shortcoming of this system is that when the wheel of either side loses contact with the ground, the power is transmitted only to this wheel to rotate it, and the wheel keeping contact with the ground will not rotate, thus the car’s driving force will be totally lost.
BALL DIFFERENTIAL
This is a unique differential system used on cars. A ball differential consists of metal balls sandwiched between two pressure plates. The balls work like the small bevel gears in a gear differential, absorbing rotation differential between the right and left wheels during cornering. Even when a wheel leaves the ground, because of the friction caused by the pressure to the balls, power is transmitted to some extent to the wheel that is in contact with the ground, thus a total loss of the driving force is avoided. The pressure can be adjusted by tightening a screw, and adding spacers or washers etc. Too little pressure results in slipping of the balls, so the power is not transmitted to the wheels.
TORQUE SPLITTERS AND ONE-WAY DIFF UNITS
There is a slight difference of travel between the front and rear wheels. The rear wheels turn more inward than the front wheels, so the front wheels rotate more than the rear. In a shaft-driven four wheel drive cars, the front and rear wheels are connected with a propeller shaft, and the rotation difference causes stress to the propeller shaft. Torque splitter and one-way diff units are developed to solve this problem. Both systems use a oneway bearing which rotates freely only in one direction, allowing the front wheels to rotate faster than the propeller shaft rotation during cornering.
10. FINE-TUNING AN CAR’S PERFORMANCE
A car's performance characteristics are influenced by many factors. Unthought alteration of various components results in mere confusion. Observe and follow the points described below.
TRACTION OF THE DRIVING WHEELS IS IMPORTANT
The motor/engine power is transmitted to the car’s driving wheels and propels the car. To make the best use of the power, concentrate on obtaining the utmost traction at the driving wheels.
REAR WHEELS’ TRACTION MAKES A CAR STABLE
When a car turns its direction, the front wheels steer while the rear wheels act like a fulcrum. If these support points do not grip the ground properly, the car’s stability will be reduced. In rear wheel drive and four wheel drive cars, the rear wheel traction should be most valued. In front wheel drive cars, balance between the front driving wheels and rear wheels traction should also be carefully considered.
ALTER STEP BY STEP
Attempting to modify-it-all in one try should be avoided, because if any effect is obtained, you cannot figure out exactly which alteration led to the obtained result. Alter/adjust one point at a time and perform a test run each time. By repeating this procedure, you will know the individual effect of each adjustment, which greatly helps you in attaining a balanced setting on your car.
BALANCED ADJUSTMENT BETWEEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT
If a suspension setting is different between the left and right side of your car, it will have different tendencies when taking corners and turns. Settings must be equal on the right and left. tin oval track competitions as seen on the full-sized Indy Car events, cars have a different weight distribution on the right and left side, because these cars take corners only in one direction.
CONSIDER THE WEATHER AND TEMPERATURE
High temperatures cause oil and grease to become softer and thus their viscosities are lowered. Conversely, they become stiffer under low temperatures. Therefore, different greases and oils will be required to obtain the same setting condition during summer and winter. The setting should be also done according to the track surface conditions. When running on a wet or slippery surfaces, higher traction tires and/or larger spoilers to produce stronger down force, should be employed.
http://www.rcecho.com/CHARACTERIZING-A-CAR.html
There are a variety of car characters fast cars, cars with excellent acceleration, cars with good cornering capability, and so forth. Cars assembled from kits come out diversified in quality because they are built up through the assembler’s own techniques. Build your car in your own way. The most apparent characterizations are formed in the gear ratio and the steering characteristics.
1. GEAR RATIO SETTING
At a given output power of the motor or engine, the maximum speed and acceleration capabilities are determined by the gear ratio. The gear ratio means how many rotations of the pinion gear are required for one rotation of the drive wheel. This is generally adjusted by altering the pinion gear to one with a different teeth number.
RELATION BETWEEN THE GEAR RATIO AND SPEED/ACCELERATION
You will have a higher gear ratio with a smaller pinion gear (smaller number of teeth) and a larger gear on the rear axle. The opposite makes a low gear ratio. With a high gear ratio, the car has a better acceleration capability, but a limited maximum speed. A car with a low gear ratio has poor acceleration but a higher maximum speed.
A car with a low gear ratio has poor acceleration but a higher maximum speed.
A car with high gear ratio is suitable for a technical course which is built with hair pin curves demanding low speed driving, while a car with a low gear ratio is for a speed course consisting of longer straightaways and curves of larger radii.
*A too low of a gear ratio will overload the motor/engine, resulting in overheating and eventual burn-out.
GEAR RATIO AND RUNNING TIME
In general, the higher the gear ratio is, the longer the running time, and vice-versa. When entering a time race such as a 4-minute or 8-minute competition, a suitable gear ratio to complete the race must be chosen. In endurance competitions, the gear ratio influences times of battery change or refuelling.
GEAR RATIO SUITABLE TO THE MOTOR/ENGINE
A wide range of optional pinion gears are on the market for many variations in the gear ratio settings. You should always bear in mind that motors and engines have their own power output characteristics and effective power range. If the motor or engine is replaced with one with higher performance, replacement of the pinion gear will also be required to obtain a suitable gear ratio. The diagrams below indicates suitable pinion gear for Tamiya electric cars and motors.
GEAR RATIO SETTING PROCEDURE
Start from a large gear ratio (small pinion gear teeth number) and move to smaller gear ratios. Check lap times on a track or running time and select a suitable gear ratio for the track.
DRIVE WHEEL DIAMETER
The diameter of the drive wheels are also related to the speed and acceleration characteristics. The larger the diameter of the drive wheels is, the higher the speed of the car will develop within certain limitations.
*Attaching too large a diameter of wheels will overload the motor/engine and resulting in overheating and burn-out.
2. UNDER STEERING AND OVER STEERING (STEERING TENDENCY)
When the steering wheel is turned, the car will also turn in the same direction. However, most cars have the tendency to turn excessively or inadequately. These characteristics are called steering traits. Cars that turn excessively have over steering traits and the others have under steering traits. Cars that turn in close proportion to the control have neutral steering. This is hardly achieved except with cars that are running at a low speed.
A car with under steering is easy to drive. A car with over steering will spin when taking corners high speed. Even on a straight course, it An under steering car has difficulty making sharp turns, and at a high speed it may not be able to take corners and could leave the course. In either case, excessive steering makes a car difficult to control.
MOTOR/PINION GEAR CHART (ACCORDING TO CHASSIS)
FACTORS TO DETERMINE STEERING CHARACTERISTICS
The steering characteristics are affected by the difference between the traction of the front and rear tires. When the traction of the front tires is greater than that of the rear tires, the result is over steering. The opposite condition causes under steering. Therefore, adjust the traction of the rear tires so that it is a little greater. You will attain a slight degree of under steering.
The traction of a tire is determined by the following factors. By adjusting these, the steering tendency of a car can be altered.
3. CHOOSING TIRES
Motor/engine power is transmitted to the ground via tires, and a car’s stability during running is also greatly affected by the tire’s traction. Choosing suitable tires is a very important point in the car’s setting.
Two types of tires are used on cars; synthetic rubber semi-pneumatic tires and sponge tires. In addition, tires of various materials, widths, tread patterns etc. are available for broad range of settings.
*The diagram above indicates the grip of Tamiya optional tires. The tire grip may differ depending upon the track surface condition, temperature, etc.
ON-ROAD TIRES
Both sponge and semi-pneumatic tires are used for on-road track running. In case of sponge tires, sponges of different stiffness are used to obtain different traction. Special synthetic rubber caps are sometimes used to cover the surface of sponge tires (these are
called “capped tires”). Semi-pneumatic tires for on-road running are roughly divided into the treadless slicks or treaded tires. These are sometimes used in combination with inner sponges.
Reinforced tires are used on M-chassis, F-1, GT and oars. Furthermore two—types of reinforced tires, A-type and B type are prepared for F-1 and GT cars according to circuit temperature. A-type is resistant to changing temperature. Special material is used on B-type for high-grip under high-temperature conditions.
COMPARISON BETWEEN A-TYPE & B-TYPE
EFFECT OF INNER SPONGE
Inner sponge and insert provide even contact between the tire and ground relation, and are effective in increasing overall traction. Insert is ring-shaped synthetic rubber foam to fit the cavity between wheel and tire. Without the inner sponge, the car’s weight is carried by side walls of the tires. Therefore tire edges are liable to wear. Inner sponge helps these problems, by providing an even contact of the tire surface to the ground.
Belt-shaped inner sponge, inner foam and ring-shaped insert are prepared. We supply standard and hard types as inner sponge, standard and soft types as ring-shaped insert. We recommend to use foam and reinforced slicks type-A together for more efficiency.
SECURING TIRE
It’s important to secure semi-pneumatic rubber tires to the wheels. In that case, tire-c:ementing helper is useful. Just set tire into the inside of helper, then hold it down to make a gap between tire and wheel. Now, apply instant cement between them. We recommend to use TAMIYA CA cement (for rubber tires). TAMIYA CA cement (fot ruber tires).
OFF-ROAD TIRES
Semi-pneumatic tires are mainly used for offroad cars. Tires with various spikes and tread patterns are available. These spikes and patpatterns provide positive traction while running on rough terrain. Choose tires according to
the running surface. Semi-pneumatic off-road tires can be combined with inner sponges when necessary.
4. SUSPENSION SETTING
On full-sized vehicles, the suspension is important in providing a comfortable ride to passengers. On cars, its main objective is to keep the wheels on the ground and maintain constant traction to obtain the maximum maneuverability.
A GOOD SUSPENSION PROVIDES TRACK-HUGGING PERFORMANCE
In order to run a radio controlled model smoothly and swiftly over differing road conditions, the suspension system that joins the wheels to the chassis plays an important role. Various types of suspension systems are used for buggies and on road cars to obtain maximum traction from the tires on the running surface.
SPRING AND DAMPER STIFFNESS ARE IMPORTANT
Suspension systems such as double wishbone, and trailing arm type are used on model cars just as on full sized vehicles. These are basically composed of upper and lower arms, coil springs, and damper units that absorb the energy stored in the spring upon compression. A simple 3-point suspension system is often used on the Formulatype on-road cars. In this case, front wheels are independently damped by coil springs, while the rear wheels are damped by a single shock unit. When adjusting suspension systems to track conditions, first adjust the coil spring stiffness, then the damper.
COIL SPRING ADJUSTMENTS
Coil springs fitted to suspension units are there to assist the suspension in following the surface it’s running on. It is a mechanical device that stores and dissipates shock energy to keep the car running steadily on the track. A too stiff spring results in an uncontrolled suspension that will cause the car to hop around wildly. If it’s too soft, the car will bottom out on the ground at each bump on the track. Springs should be adjusted according to the overall weight that compresses them. The coil springs included in the kits are designed and matched to the car, and should provide standard performance. If the car is modified and trimmed for lighter weight, use a softer spring.
Springs should be stiffened using spacers, after installing higher output motors, in order to compensate for the extra power. Using stiffer springs on rough terrain and softer springs on flat tracks is the normal rule.
ADJUST DAMPER ACCORDING TO SPRING STIFFNESS
The dampers widely used in cars are of the oil filled type. The higher the viscosity of the damper oil, the stiffer the damper, on the other hand, the lower the viscosity, the softer the damper. When using hard springs use harder damper oil, and for soft springs use softer damper oil.
OIL FILLED SHOCK UNITS
From the economical and long-wear plastic cylinders to competition low-friction aluminum cylinders, Tamiya offers a wide range of high performance oil filled shocks to meet your car’s requirement. All shock units are designed to provide the smoothest shock action while providing optimum road hugging ability to the vehicle. Adjustments can be made at the coil springs and pistons to compensate for the different track conditions. Oil viscosity can be altered by using the Tamiya Silicone Damper Oil set, to obtain the best possible performance.
*Shock unit dimensions differ according to the vehicle. Refer to illustration and notes.
TAMIYA SILICONE DAMPER OIL
Tamiya’s quality Silicone Damper Oil is developed exclusively for oil filled shock units used on car * models. It is formulated to maintain constant viscosity throughout
a wide temperature range. 3 sets; soft, medium and hard, are available with each set consisting 2 bottles of different viscosity oil. Select oil according to your track requirements.
FRICTION DAMPERS
This damping system is used on some on road racing cars. Several discs and pads are overlaid and damping effect is obtained by their friction. By applying oil or grease to the pads, the damping effect can be adjusted. Oils and greases of different viscosities are on the market for this purpose.
STABILIZER
During high speed cornering, a car tends to roll or incline outward, resulting in less traction of the inner wheels and causing instability of the car. Stabilizers are used to reduce the roll, and it contributes in improving the car’s overall maneuverability.
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CAR'S SUSPENSION SETTING
Place your car on a flat surface, and if its damper springs are slightly compressed with the car’s weight, spring stiffness is set correctly. Press the car down to the ground and release. If the car rises smoothly (not instantly), an adequate damping is obtained. For off road cars, drop the car to the ground from a height of about 30cm. If the setting is acceptable, the car will not bump or its bottom does not hit the ground because the dampers absorb shock. Of course, the final adjustment must be done while test running the car.
5. WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION BETWEEN WHEELS
The heavier the load carried by a wheel, the more traction it has because more pressure to the ground is produced. Thus, the weight distribution between the front and rear wheels greatly influences the car’s handling characteristics. Generally, the distribution ratio between the front and rear is from 35:65 to 45:55. Adjust weight distribution by moving heavy components such as Ni-Cd battery to the desired direction. Front or rear wheel load can be roughly checked by the method described below.
6. WING & SPOILER
The wing attached on many racing cars is employed to gain stability at high speed running. With your radio controlled cars, the rear wing is used to press down the rear wheels for improving the traction on the road. In this way, the gripping power of the rear wheel becomes greater than that of the front wheels and the steering trait changes toward understeering. The faster the car goes, the more effective the wing becomes, that is, the greater the down thrust on the rear wheels. Depending upon the way you adjust the wing, the car can have an excellent cornering characteristics on a low speed curve, but still keep superb stability on the high speed straights.
Such a car, also, will show a good adhesion to the road at high speed running. The effect of the wing is lessened when the wing is flattened. The more it is lifted, the greater the down-force. However, it increases the air drag, too, and the velocity of the car is slowed. Therefore, the adjustment of the wing must be made carefully, and with the proper adjustment an ideal maneuverability will be attained.
A LARGE WING WILL INCREASE AIR DRAG
The larger and the more angled a wing is, the more downward force is produced during running by the air flow. However, a too large or too steep wing will produce more air drag than desired, resulting in reduced speed of the car. The position of a wing/spoiler also influences its effectiveness. If attached at front, it increases the traction of the front wheels, and vice-versa.
DOWNFORCE DIFFERS ACCORDING TO RUNNING SPEED
Wings and spoilers produce more downward force during running, as the car’s speed comes faster. If a car has an oversteer tendency, use a large, steep angled rear wing. During high speed running, it will produce more downforce and augment its rear wheel traction, thus understeering characteristics can be obtained. When the speed becomes low, the effect of the wing lessens, and the car recovers its original oversteer characteristics.
MOUNT THE WING FIRMLY
lf a wing is mounted to the chassis with a flexible stay, the downforce produced by the wing cannot be effectively utilized by the car. Some cars’ wings are mounted directly onto their polycarbonate body shell. In such cases, the body itself should be firmly secured to the chassis.
7. WHEEL ALIJGNMENT
This is the term for indicating under what condition the wheels are attached to the chassis. Typical factors are toe angles, caster angles and camber angles, which plays portant roles in car settings.
TOE ANGLE
This term indicates the wheels on the both sides are parallel or inclined when viewed from above. If they are inclined forward, it is called “toe-in”, and if inclined rearward, they are in a “toe-out” setting. lf they are parallel to each other, they are neutral. Toe angles on the front wheels can be adjusted by altering the length of the steering tie-rods. In addition to the standard adjustable tie-rods, turnbuckle tie-rods are available which allow quick and easy adjustment of the length without removal of the rod. Rear wheel toe-angle is adjustable on some cars, but in most cases, replacement of suspension arms etc. will be required. Take care not to set an excessive toe-in or toe-out, otherwise the resulting drag will hinder the handling of the car. Begin with a little toe-in and work from there.
CASTER ANGLE
This angle indicates how much the king pin on the front upright is inclined rearward from the vertical. Generally, a larger caster angle improves the car’s straight running stability. However, with a large caster angle, the front wheels become slanted when steered. This may result in reduced traction during cornering and an uneven wear to the tire tread.
CAMBER ANGLE
This is the angle of the right and left wheels when viewed from the front or rear. If the wheels incline inward to the top, it is in negative camber. lf inclined outward to the top,
they have a positive camber. The camber angie detemrines the area of contact on each tire during cornering, and therefore the traction of the tires can be made greater or lesser through its adjustments. To increase traction during cornering, adjust to negative, and for reducing traction, adjust to positive. The steering characteristics can be changed by altering the traction of the front and rear tires. The car can be made to oversteer with the front adjusted to negative camber and the rear to positive. To cause the car to understeer, adjust front to positive camber and rear to negative. Camber angle adjustment is done by altering the length of the suspension upper arms. Use of turnbuckle shafts on upper arms allows quick camber angle adjustments.
8. WHEELBASE AND TREAD (TRACK)
Wheelbase is the distance between the car’s front and rear axles. Tread or track means the distance between the left and right wheels. If the tread is the same, a car with longer wheelbase has better straight running stability and reduced cornering performance. If the wheelbase is the same, a wider tread provides quicker cornering. Cars which have adjustable wheelbase are not common, but in some cases, this can be done by adding spacers or replacing chassis members, etc. Tread can be altered by using wider or narrower wheels or of different offsets. When doing this, you should be careful so that the wheels do not contact the body shell, and also within the limits of race regulations in which you are participating.
9. DIFFERENTIAL GEARING
When the car is turning, the distance travelled by the inside wheels is less than that of the outside wheels. The differential gearing provides a smoother cornering performance by absorbing these differences by altering the rotating speed of each wheel. Without the differential, a car is apt to make big turns or take corners awkwardly.
BEVEL GEAR DIFFERENTIAL
This differential system is used on both the full-sized vehicles and R/C cars. During straight running and if both the left and right wheels contact with the ground, the differential does not work and the motor/engine power is transmitted to both wheels evenly. When cornering, the bevel gears in the differential unit rotate according to the travel of the left or right wheels, thus absorbing the difference of their rotation. One shortcoming of this system is that when the wheel of either side loses contact with the ground, the power is transmitted only to this wheel to rotate it, and the wheel keeping contact with the ground will not rotate, thus the car’s driving force will be totally lost.
BALL DIFFERENTIAL
This is a unique differential system used on cars. A ball differential consists of metal balls sandwiched between two pressure plates. The balls work like the small bevel gears in a gear differential, absorbing rotation differential between the right and left wheels during cornering. Even when a wheel leaves the ground, because of the friction caused by the pressure to the balls, power is transmitted to some extent to the wheel that is in contact with the ground, thus a total loss of the driving force is avoided. The pressure can be adjusted by tightening a screw, and adding spacers or washers etc. Too little pressure results in slipping of the balls, so the power is not transmitted to the wheels.
TORQUE SPLITTERS AND ONE-WAY DIFF UNITS
There is a slight difference of travel between the front and rear wheels. The rear wheels turn more inward than the front wheels, so the front wheels rotate more than the rear. In a shaft-driven four wheel drive cars, the front and rear wheels are connected with a propeller shaft, and the rotation difference causes stress to the propeller shaft. Torque splitter and one-way diff units are developed to solve this problem. Both systems use a oneway bearing which rotates freely only in one direction, allowing the front wheels to rotate faster than the propeller shaft rotation during cornering.
10. FINE-TUNING AN CAR’S PERFORMANCE
A car's performance characteristics are influenced by many factors. Unthought alteration of various components results in mere confusion. Observe and follow the points described below.
TRACTION OF THE DRIVING WHEELS IS IMPORTANT
The motor/engine power is transmitted to the car’s driving wheels and propels the car. To make the best use of the power, concentrate on obtaining the utmost traction at the driving wheels.
REAR WHEELS’ TRACTION MAKES A CAR STABLE
When a car turns its direction, the front wheels steer while the rear wheels act like a fulcrum. If these support points do not grip the ground properly, the car’s stability will be reduced. In rear wheel drive and four wheel drive cars, the rear wheel traction should be most valued. In front wheel drive cars, balance between the front driving wheels and rear wheels traction should also be carefully considered.
ALTER STEP BY STEP
Attempting to modify-it-all in one try should be avoided, because if any effect is obtained, you cannot figure out exactly which alteration led to the obtained result. Alter/adjust one point at a time and perform a test run each time. By repeating this procedure, you will know the individual effect of each adjustment, which greatly helps you in attaining a balanced setting on your car.
BALANCED ADJUSTMENT BETWEEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT
If a suspension setting is different between the left and right side of your car, it will have different tendencies when taking corners and turns. Settings must be equal on the right and left. tin oval track competitions as seen on the full-sized Indy Car events, cars have a different weight distribution on the right and left side, because these cars take corners only in one direction.
CONSIDER THE WEATHER AND TEMPERATURE
High temperatures cause oil and grease to become softer and thus their viscosities are lowered. Conversely, they become stiffer under low temperatures. Therefore, different greases and oils will be required to obtain the same setting condition during summer and winter. The setting should be also done according to the track surface conditions. When running on a wet or slippery surfaces, higher traction tires and/or larger spoilers to produce stronger down force, should be employed.
http://www.rcecho.com/CHARACTERIZING-A-CAR.html
Let's go to ENJOYMENT OF IMPROVING PERFORMANCE
ENJOYMENT OF IMPROVING PERFORMANCE
As you attain proficiency in controlling cars, you will be tempted to improve your car. This chapter will introduce handy ways of increasing performance. The most important matter you have to keep in mind when you modify your car is to keep everything in balance. By putting a big motor on your car, you can make it run faster. Still it cannot be an improvement of performance if it has lost stability. Most kits on the market are produced by the manufacturer with all factors considered such as speed, maneuverability and durability. So try to enhance the collective performance of your car.
1. MAKE THE BEST USE OF AVAILABLE POWER
Even though you use a high performance motor or engine, friction during transmission can cause considerable power loss and reduced performance. Keep the friction power loss to the minimum and get the most of the available motor/engine power.
BALL BEARINGS
Motor and engine power is transmitted to the car's wheels via gears and shafts. Plastic and metal bushings are often used with these shafts, and replacing them with ball bearings is not only simple, but an effective first step for improving your car’s performance. Bali bearings consist of an outer and inner race, with steel balls between the races. The balls roll smoothly when the inner or outer race rotates, keeping friction power loss to a minimum. When properly maintained, ball bearings have a much longer life span than plastic or metal bushings. Bushings used in uprights can be replaced with ball bearings after completing the model, while model disassembly is required for replacement if housed inside a sealed gearbox. It is therefore recommended that ball bearings be installed during initial assembly.
http://www.rcecho.com/ENJOYMENT-OF-IMPROVING-PERFORMANCE.html
As you attain proficiency in controlling cars, you will be tempted to improve your car. This chapter will introduce handy ways of increasing performance. The most important matter you have to keep in mind when you modify your car is to keep everything in balance. By putting a big motor on your car, you can make it run faster. Still it cannot be an improvement of performance if it has lost stability. Most kits on the market are produced by the manufacturer with all factors considered such as speed, maneuverability and durability. So try to enhance the collective performance of your car.
1. MAKE THE BEST USE OF AVAILABLE POWER
Even though you use a high performance motor or engine, friction during transmission can cause considerable power loss and reduced performance. Keep the friction power loss to the minimum and get the most of the available motor/engine power.
BALL BEARINGS
Motor and engine power is transmitted to the car's wheels via gears and shafts. Plastic and metal bushings are often used with these shafts, and replacing them with ball bearings is not only simple, but an effective first step for improving your car’s performance. Bali bearings consist of an outer and inner race, with steel balls between the races. The balls roll smoothly when the inner or outer race rotates, keeping friction power loss to a minimum. When properly maintained, ball bearings have a much longer life span than plastic or metal bushings. Bushings used in uprights can be replaced with ball bearings after completing the model, while model disassembly is required for replacement if housed inside a sealed gearbox. It is therefore recommended that ball bearings be installed during initial assembly.
http://www.rcecho.com/ENJOYMENT-OF-IMPROVING-PERFORMANCE.html
Thursday, March 8, 2012
i find a good learning place
DRIVING IN THE RAIN
It is recommended to refrain from running your car in the rain because the radio control mechanism is liable to be affected by water. However, races may be held in drizzle. It is necessary to have some basic knowledge of driving in the rain.
http://www.rcecho.com/DRIVING-IN-THE-RAIN.html
OFF ROAD DRIVING CARE
Even though you own an off-road vehicle, you must select your driving areas with care to keep your vehicle in good condition. Inconsiderate driving will cause trouble and possible damage to your car.
http://www.rcecho.com/OFF-ROAD-DRIVING-CARE.html
HOW TO BUILD A CIRCUIT
Building a racing course, even a simple one, lets you enjoy it far better than running a car in a large open space freely. You can make one very easily, i.e., by drawing lines with chalk or using empty bottles for pylons (when using a space of someone’s possession, like a parking lot; of course, permission should be acquired beforehand). To make race more fun, some knowledge of courses are required.
http://www.rcecho.com/HOW-TO-BUILD-A-CIRCUIT.html
DAILY MAINTENANCE
I To keep your car at optimum performance, daily maintenance is important. This will also help discover any hidden problem areas. Without this daily care, your car’s performance can deteriorate rapidly. Keep it in the best possible condition at all times.
http://www.rcecho.com/DAILY-MAINTENANCE.html
THE CHALLENGE OF LE MANS
The Le Mans 24 hour race is done with racing sport cars, and the famous Spa-Francorchamps 24 hour race is done with touring type cars. A combination of driving ability and team-work of the pit crew are necessary for winning this type of race. Fuel, tire changes and the correction or replacement of broken parts is essential from the pit crew in the minimum time possible to remain competitive.
http://www.rcecho.com/THE-CHALLENGE-OF-LE-MANS.html
It is recommended to refrain from running your car in the rain because the radio control mechanism is liable to be affected by water. However, races may be held in drizzle. It is necessary to have some basic knowledge of driving in the rain.
http://www.rcecho.com/DRIVING-IN-THE-RAIN.html
OFF ROAD DRIVING CARE
Even though you own an off-road vehicle, you must select your driving areas with care to keep your vehicle in good condition. Inconsiderate driving will cause trouble and possible damage to your car.
http://www.rcecho.com/OFF-ROAD-DRIVING-CARE.html
HOW TO BUILD A CIRCUIT
Building a racing course, even a simple one, lets you enjoy it far better than running a car in a large open space freely. You can make one very easily, i.e., by drawing lines with chalk or using empty bottles for pylons (when using a space of someone’s possession, like a parking lot; of course, permission should be acquired beforehand). To make race more fun, some knowledge of courses are required.
http://www.rcecho.com/HOW-TO-BUILD-A-CIRCUIT.html
DAILY MAINTENANCE
I To keep your car at optimum performance, daily maintenance is important. This will also help discover any hidden problem areas. Without this daily care, your car’s performance can deteriorate rapidly. Keep it in the best possible condition at all times.
http://www.rcecho.com/DAILY-MAINTENANCE.html
THE CHALLENGE OF LE MANS
The Le Mans 24 hour race is done with racing sport cars, and the famous Spa-Francorchamps 24 hour race is done with touring type cars. A combination of driving ability and team-work of the pit crew are necessary for winning this type of race. Fuel, tire changes and the correction or replacement of broken parts is essential from the pit crew in the minimum time possible to remain competitive.
http://www.rcecho.com/THE-CHALLENGE-OF-LE-MANS.html
Monday, March 5, 2012
PRACTICING ON A CIRCUIT
PRACTICING ON A CIRCUIT
Operating a radio controlled car in the open is one thing, but running it on a closed circuit is entirely different. Even though you are not competing, and only practicing, driving on a circuit will add much to your driving skills. You can also observe techniques used by experienced drivers running highly tuned cars at the circuit.
You can get more detail information on this link:
http://www.rcecho.com/PRACTICING-ON-A-CIRCUIT.html
Operating a radio controlled car in the open is one thing, but running it on a closed circuit is entirely different. Even though you are not competing, and only practicing, driving on a circuit will add much to your driving skills. You can also observe techniques used by experienced drivers running highly tuned cars at the circuit.
You can get more detail information on this link:
http://www.rcecho.com/PRACTICING-ON-A-CIRCUIT.html
Thursday, March 1, 2012
BASIC DRIVING TRAINING
BASIC DRIVING TRAINING
You cannot make yourself a skilled driver just by running a car at will. Make a course using things like empty cans as pylons.
OVAL COURSE 1
This is the simplest course using two pylons. It looks simple at first sight to drive a car along, but it will require some practice to achieve sharp and rigid turns made with the pylons as vertexes of the curves. Practice both ways, clockwise and counter clockwise, until you can make both rounds in about the same period of time. Figure drill can be also done in the same track.
http://www.rcecho.com/BASIC-DRIVING-TRAINING.html
You cannot make yourself a skilled driver just by running a car at will. Make a course using things like empty cans as pylons.
OVAL COURSE 1
This is the simplest course using two pylons. It looks simple at first sight to drive a car along, but it will require some practice to achieve sharp and rigid turns made with the pylons as vertexes of the curves. Practice both ways, clockwise and counter clockwise, until you can make both rounds in about the same period of time. Figure drill can be also done in the same track.
http://www.rcecho.com/BASIC-DRIVING-TRAINING.html
GUIDANCE FOR ELECTRIC POWERED R/C CAR MODELS
Of the many types of radio controlled models available, electric powered cars are most popular. Entry level kits are simple to construct and maintain, and ideal for learning the basics of this hobby, while the high performance electric racing cars have the potential of satisfying the most discriminating competition racers.
http://www.rcecho.com/GUIDANCE-FOR-ELECTRIC-POWERED-RC-CAR-MODELS.html
http://www.rcecho.com/GUIDANCE-FOR-ELECTRIC-POWERED-RC-CAR-MODELS.html
Monday, February 27, 2012
Enjoy Radio Control
i saw this web site when i am a rc model beginner. this is a very helpful web site:
http://www.rcecho.com/Enjoy-Radio-Control.html
ENJOY RADIO CONTROL
A great number of people from around the world are enjoying this Radio Control sport. Cars, tanks, motorboats and sailing ships, plus many aircraft are available in the format. People find excitement in the precise mechanics and high performance of these models. Assembly and finishing, customizing and tuning up, and organizing and participating in competition are just a few of the possibilities in this limitless hobby of radio control modeling.
This guide book was initially compiled to focus on the fundamentals of electric powered car models; however, additional guidance on glow engine powered cars, sailing ships and motor gliders has been included. We hope it is instructional and informative to provide a better understanding of this fantastic sport.
http://www.rcecho.com/Enjoy-Radio-Control.html
ENJOY RADIO CONTROL
A great number of people from around the world are enjoying this Radio Control sport. Cars, tanks, motorboats and sailing ships, plus many aircraft are available in the format. People find excitement in the precise mechanics and high performance of these models. Assembly and finishing, customizing and tuning up, and organizing and participating in competition are just a few of the possibilities in this limitless hobby of radio control modeling.
This guide book was initially compiled to focus on the fundamentals of electric powered car models; however, additional guidance on glow engine powered cars, sailing ships and motor gliders has been included. We hope it is instructional and informative to provide a better understanding of this fantastic sport.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
