This revolutionary 14-channel system opens a new era in RC flying

The 14MZ has a large transflective full color touch screen that is easy to see in full sunlight. It is very easy to navigate, and you can take in a lot of information with a quick scan of the display. When you select a model from the 30 model memories, a digital image of the plane is displayed on the screen.

This revolutionary 14-channel system opens a new era in RC flying
As an all-around RC flier with decades of experience in the hobby, I was understandably thrilled to have the opportunity to review Futaba new groundbreaking 14MZ radio. The new 14MZ crosses a threshold that advances RC flying to a new “interactive” level of functionality, precision and fun. This radio is more than just a tool that connects the pilot to the aircraft; the 14MZ is a multi-media system that enhances the quality of your flying experience, taking it beyond what was possible with any previous radio.



The 14MZ, which is the result of over two million dollars in R&D (10 patents pending), takes advantage of the latest in computer technology. It has dual internal processors. The Windows CE operating system is used on one chip for all non-flight functions, including setup and programming of models, as well as management of digital image and audio files on the included compact flash (CF) card. A Futaba Custom Processor with its own proprietary operating system handles all critical flying functions separately. This combination gives the radio remarkable versatility. It includes a simplified PDA-like interface coupled with the reliability of the best of Futaba technology.

To describe the power and versatility of the radio, we will devote more than one article to the 14MZ. In our first installment, we will detail the primary features and benefits of the 14MZ and begin to fly the radio in a Great Planes U-Can-Do 3D airplane. You will see how Futaba has developed user-friendly menus with unmatched programming capability. In future issues, we will install and fly the system in different kinds of powered aircraft as well as helis and gliders. You will see the interesting ways in which this radio enhances both the quality of the flying experience and the performance envelope of your models.

14 CHANNELS AND WHY YOU NEED THEM
My first impression was one of outrageous excess, but once I understood the premise of this radio, I began to wonder if 14 channels were enough for the modern modeler. Every time we eliminate a Y-harness, we are eliminating a potential problem (connections can go bad, and some Y-harness applications require filters and amplifiers, especially with digital servos). Ideally, every servo should have a dedicated port in the receiver to plug into—and its own channel.

How many channels? If you have three servos to actuate control surfaces on each wing panel, you have already consumed six channels. Add two more servos for the elevator and you are up to eight. Adding two ganged servos for the rudder brings you to ten channels. Add throttle and your preferred subset of smoke, retracts, gear door sequencers, sliding canopies, spoilers, speed brakes or wheel brakes and you are already well beyond the capabilities of any previous radio—without the need for any Y-harnesses or related matching and sequencing accessories!

On a turbine jet, you often split the ailerons for two channels; split flaps for two channels, elevators for another channel. Many of these models also have additional single channels for each of the following functions: rudder, nose gear steering, sliding canopy, retracts, ordnance drop, speed brakes, lights, drogue chute, wheel brakes and, in some cases, leading edge devices or slats, and finally, throttle. We’re already at 16 channels. How have the jet jocks been getting by?

A NEW APPROACH TO GANGING SERVOS
Consider the modern giant, a 30% or larger model, with ganged servos on multiple functions. Those of us flying giant scale have all learned to accept the burden of dealing with this situation. We match our servos with all types of peripheral devices so that the servos do not fight each other and consume precious battery power. With the 14MZ, the balancing of the servos in centering, speed and throw is simple, and entirely built into the transmitter.

This sailplane wing diagram illustrates the amazing programming power of the 14MZ. Control surfaces can be coupled and mixed in ways that were not possible before the arrival of this radio. For instance, you can now deploy two sets of ailerons and flaps, which would use a total of eight channels. These control surfaces can be adjusted in unison to increase or decrease camber, or they can be configured as conventional flaps and ailerons. You can set up crow however you wish—or even configure drag-inducing “air brakes” at the tips of the wings for yaw input on a flying wing. The radio supports seven different wing types, 4 tail types, and 3 motor types.

A function page allows you to assign the input channels from the transmitter directly to any one of the channels of the receiver. Let’s say you are ganging three servos for rudder control on a large model. You would already have your rudder channel assigned to rudder use, and would then assign two of the auxiliary channels to the rudder as well. Then, using the 14MZ’s programming, you individually adjust the centering, speed and throw limits of the three different servos.

The result is a simple and trouble-free system that, again, needs none of the peripheral devices we previously couldn’t fly without.

HIGHER RESOLUTION, FASTER RESPONSE
The 14MZ has twice the resolution of the previous top-end PCM 1024 systems—it offers 2048 discrete steps. It also offers backwards compatibility with all of the receivers you currently use with your Futaba radios—PCM 1024 as well as PPM/FM.

Futaba has named this new system PCM Generation 3 (PCM G3). The frame rate is 40% faster than that of the Futaba 9Z. The higher resolution and faster response time means that your control of your airborne ship has never been tighter or more precise. The servos pick up even the slightest stick movement, and respond 25% faster. This is a serious advantage for planes with lots of throw and large amounts of exponential. They tend to spread out the steps of motion to the greatest extent, and they do it right around neutral, where you can feel it most!

THE BIG SCREEN
The screen is of the HVGA type, and it is big and very easy to read, indoors and out. The full color transflective touch screen is highly visible even in bright sunlight. It features a special lens system with a liquid between the lens and the film that virtually eliminates glare, for maximum visibility both indoors and outdoors.

There is a ton of information available to you on the large screen—this is a real eye-opener. The screen offers a PDA-like graphic interface, a big improvement over standard LCD characters. I have quickly embraced this remarkable interface as a fast and efficient way to monitor critical parameters like battery capacity, model memory selected, trim positions, etc. at a glance. This is a welcome new experience.

The most notable feature on the screen is the image of the plane you have selected from memory, right in the display. To get your own plane into the display, you need to take a digital picture and convert it to a bmp file in your PC. Next, you will need to insert the CF card from the radio into the port in your PC. Transfer the bmp file(s) to the CF card and insert it into the radio. Now there is no excuse for you to have the wrong memory selected when you fly!

CHANGING CHANNELS
The 14MZ also offers frequency-synthesizing capability. Channel selection is accomplished solely with the transmitter. Select your channel through the transmitter and the receiver will automatically synchronize to match the selected channel of the transmitter. No crystals required, and the receiver is amazingly small given its capability.

MUSIC AND VOICE PROMPTS
At first I thought this was absurd excess. Sounds stored in a transmitter…but the more you work with it, the more commonsense needs begin to shine through and justify this novel addition. The 14MZ can play back WMA (Windows Media Audio) files that are saved to the CF card. You can listen to these files using the built-in speaker, or you can listen in private with the included earphones. To record these, you simply speak into a microphone that is built into the transmitter.

Short “Sound Bytes”—Essentially, there are two separate systems working in this system. One involves short sound bytes or recordings, approximately three seconds long, that you can use to perfectly identify a switch when it is moved. Imagine deploying flaps and hearing the radio say “flaps down.” You don’t have to take your eyes off your plane in flight. You can assign up to 24 different voice prompts!

Long “Sound Bytes” — The second system relates to lengthier stored files. These can be music, as we see used more and more in freestyle competition, or verbal sequences. Have you ever had to rely on a caller in scale or aerobatic competition? Have you ever had a caller pause or misstate a maneuver in a way that threw you for a moment and possibly affected your score? It has happened to me! With the 14MZ, you would establish your sequence and then record it as a digital WMA file. You load the file into the CF card and then, with the card back in your transmitter, assign the file to a switch for playback. You can pause the recording when you need to, and continue when you and the judges are ready.

MODEL MEMORY AND UPDATES
The radio includes 30 model memories, but this is expandable. Using the CF card, you can save programming and images for up to 100 different models. You have up to 32 characters to name a model.

With a radio system as sophisticated as the 14MZ, you know there will be software updates as time goes on. Futaba has made the updating process extremely simple. To update the radio’s software, all you do is insert the CF card with the software update and turn on the radio.

CUSTOMIZABLE STICKS
Each control stick axis is supported by dual ball bearings. Stick tension, length and detent are all adjustable, so airplane and heli modelers can personalize to their preference. That’s only the beginning, as you can customize other aspects of the hardware interface as well.

SWITCHES, SLIDERS AND KNOBS
All of the eight switches on the transmitter are interchangeable among four different switch types and styles, and these are assignable for any application. Extra switches are available from Futaba so you can choose exactly the configuration that is right for you. Buttons can be installed where you want them, and spring-loaded switches used exactly where you need them. Don’t forget that with the ability to program in voice prompts, your custom-configured switches can be programmed to tell you what their function is when you operate them!

The sliders on the sides of the transmitter are very comfortable. Futaba has stacked two into the location where only one slider typically exists on other brands and models. I really like this type of slider, as I can adjust it comfortably and confidently without looking and, most importantly, without lifting my fingers off the controls of a plane or heli. Having four sliders in reach is a feature that I will use. Off the top of my head, I can envision three applications: I would assign one for flap deployment, the second for spoiler or crow-style speed brakes, and the third for traditional throttle trim adjustments (start position, normal idle, and kill).

The knobs of the 14MZ are unique. To my knowledge, this is the first use of a stowable knob in the RC industry. You press the head of the knob and it rises to a position for adjusting whatever function you have assigned it. Then, after setting it where you want, you depress it back into its recessed position. It is safely stowed and cannot be accidentally rotated.

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RC ECHO

RC ECHO

RC ECHO

RC ECHO

Detail of Futaba 4PK 4ch 2.4GHz Transmitter & R604FS Receiver

Futaba flagship of surface radios, the 4PK, is an impressive looking and high performing native 2.4GHz spread spectrum system. That means there are no modules to worry about because it's all contained inside. Those familiar with the 3PKS 2.4GHz will recognize the 4PK's interface, but with a few added features. One of my favorite "features" is the reduction in weight when compared to the 3PK. Add in a 40-model memory and all the benefits of futaba FASST system technology and you've got a radio system that will be the bane of the competition.

Everyone from racers to those who drive for fun will benefit from the 4PK's laundry list of functions as well as it's easy to navigate menus. And if thats not enough, you can even change the color of the pilot lamp 7 different ways, record your best lap times and averages, control sliding with A.B.S. controlled braking, and even switch over to boat mode for outboard tilt control.

In this review, I will cover the main features of the 4PK and briefly touch on it's functions. The detailed instruction manual is required reading when it comes to fully understanding the potential of the 4PK and I'll leave that up to you.

The 4PK is an impressive transmitter to say the least. The screen is easy to read while operating your car, truck, or boat and the buttons are setup in a no nonsense manner. Once you familiarize yourself with the button functions, you can easily navigate throughout the 4PK's interface at blistering speed, and almost every function included in the 4PK can be accessed with just a few actions.

Lets say you want to change from your car to boat, just press the jog button to enter the menu, then scroll over to M-SEL to select your model and press the center of the jog button, which serves as the enter button. Choose your model and press the + and - at the same time to confirm, and your done. It doesn't get any easier with a high-tech computer radio and every function on the 4PK can be accessed in the same manner. Now, I would like to briefly touch on some of the great features the 4PK has:

FEATURES
2.4GHzSS (Spread Spectrum) radio communication system. Frequency channel setting is unnecessary. Channel shifting takes place within the 2.4GHz band automatically and minimizes interference from other 2.4GHz systems.



40 model memory. Model names can use up to 10 letters, numbers, and symbols. A model memory with different setups can be created by using the model copy function.



Menu customizing. Function menus can be customized as desired.



Brake mixing for large cars (BRAKE). Brake mixing of the front and rear wheels of 1/5 scale and other large vehicles can be adjusted independently.



Anti-skid braking system (A.B.S.). This function applies the brakes so that the tires of gasoline engine cars, etc. don't lose their grip on the road even when braking at corners.



Throttle acceleration (ACCEL). Gasoline engine cars have a time lag before the clutch and the brake become effective. The TH-ACCEL function reduces this time lag.



Start function (START). Sudden trigger operation on a slippery surface will only cause the tires to spin and the model not to accelerate smoothly. By setting the throttle speed function, operation can be performed smoothly and easily. It also suppresses battery consumption.



Steering speed (STSPD). When you sense that the steering servo is too fast, etc., the servo operating speed can be adjusted.



racing timer (TIMER). The lap timer can record 99 laps, total time, and average lap time. it can be started automatically by trigger operation or assigned to any button. The race time and audible alarm can be set. Target laps and refueling times can be indicated by the audible alarm.



Digital trim with reset function. The current trim position is displayed on the LCD screen. Trim operation has no affect on maximum travel of the steering and throttle servos.



Function select dial function (DIAL). This function assigns functions to dials (digital trim, grip dial, knob). The step amount and operating direction can be adjusted.



Function select switch function (SWITCH). This function assigns functions to 3 switches. The operating direction can also be set.



Wheel and trigger position can be changed. The wheel position can be offset by using an optional APA wheel position offset adapter. The wheel angle can also be adjusted. The position of the throttle can be moved forward or backward up to 7mm for the most comfortable feel.



Left-handed support. The left and right installation direction of the wheel selection can be reversed.



Tension adjustment function. The tension of the steering wheel and throttle trigger springs can be adjusted from the outside. The throttle position can be moved foreward or back up to 7mm for comfort.



Vibrator build into the grip. The vibrator can be operated at racing timer lap navigation, time-up, and low battery alarm.



7-color LED pilot lamp. Your favorite color can be selected.

The 4PK includes the R604FS 4-channel receiver. If you've ever owned a 2.4GHz system, the first thing you'll notice is the small antenna wire. It's only about 4-inches long and can be slid in a small antenna tube or run without one, but it is recommended to use a tube to protect it from damage. The R604FS receiver must be bound to the transmitter before initial use. Once it it bound, it will remain bound until unbound. To bind the receiver with the 4PK, bring them close to each other, turn on the transmitter, then turn on the receiver. Next, push the tactile switch on the receiver and wait for the LED to turn solid green. Your system is now bound and ready for use.

The 4PK is a computer radio with some serious capabilities. There are many features and functions of the 4PK that were created with the racer in mind, but it's easy to navigate interface makes it beginner friendly as well; only after a few days of use was I able to navigate confidently through the 4PK's menus and know what I was doing every time. It's light weight, long battery life and unsurpassed 2.4GHzSS technology make the 4PK the best choice on the market for the racer, boater,or backyard basher. Thanks for reading my review of the Futaba 4PK.

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180A High Current Water Cooling ESC

Features
Specially designed for RC boat, with excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity festures.

Use top quality electronic components to enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.

With water cooling system and the whole ESC is waterproof to get a longer life.

2 running modes "Forward Only" mode and "Forward/Backward" mode for various of boat.

Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection for lithium or nickel battery / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection.

8 steps of timing adjustment, compatible with all kinds of brushless motor.


Specifications
•ESC Model: SeaKing-180A
•Dimensions: 72mm x 68mm x 34mm
•Continuous Current: 180A
•Burst Current (10s): 360A
•BEC Ouput: 5.8V/3A
•Working Battery Types: 6 - 18 Cells (NiMh or Nicd), 2 - 6 Cells (Li-Po)
•Working Voltage: 7.2 - 21.6V (NiMh or Nicd), 7.4 - 22.2V (Li-Po)
•Water Cooling Pipe Diameter: 5mm
•Recommend Model: RC Model Ship

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Special Item - Futaba MPDX-1 Multi-Prop Decoder

Specifications
•Dimensions: 29.6mm x 39.3mm x 15.8mm

•Operation power requirement: 4.8 or 6.0v (4 - 5 NiCad Batteries)

•Current drain: 7.5mA

•Applicable modulation modes: PCM-G3, PCM1024, PPM

•Multiplexing scheme; Pulse width division (PCM-G3, PCM1024), time division (PPM)
•Delay Function: Settable for each channel

•Fail-safe function: F/S function/HOLD function can be selected for each channel

Features
Servo operation of 8 channels is possible with 1 channel.

Linear operation us possible.

The servo operation speed of each channel can be set.

Fail-safe settinf of each channel is possible.

The T14MZ/FX-40 can mount up to 2 multi-prop decoders. Channel expansion up to 28 Channels is possible.

Operation control setting, direction of operation change, and travel adjustment are possible for each multi-prop expanded channel. (T14MZ/FX-40 transmitter side setting).

Futaba MPDX-1 Multi-Prop Decoder

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High Speed Racing Speed Controller - Futaba MC600C

Specifications
•Dimensions: 25.4 x 23.1 x 16mm
•Power requirement: Nicd battery 4 - 8 cells (4.8 - 9.6v)
•BEC voltage: 5v (excluding at 4 cells)
•PWM frequency: 2.5 kHz (fixed)
•Setting: One-touch input by pushbuton switch.
•Operating system: Forward, reverse, and brake operations are all linear.
•Silicon cord gauge size: Silicon cord gauge size: AWG14 equivalent.

Features
Ultra High Performance and Extended Run-Time using the latest SMD-MOS FETs
The lower internal resistance provides high performance and extends running time.

Ultra-Powerful Braking Effect
MC600C features an ultra-powerful fully proportional brake which is nevertheless easy to control on slippery surfaces.

Power Control Function
Cars fitted with powerful "turning" motors can easily run out of control when accelerating on slippery tracks. This function effectively prevents unwanted skidding and improves the car’s control on every surfaces.

Multi-Protection
The MC600C integral Multi-Protection software provides a unique level of protection against short circuit (motor), overload and overheating. If any of these overland situations occurs, the motor function is switched off to protect the circuit, although the steering function is maintained. The bright green LED flashes to indicate an overload situation. Allow the speed control to cool down, and the throttle function will be switched on again automatically.

Small in size, fits anywhere + Plug-in and drive
The small size of MC600C allows them to be installed anywhere in the model. The factory-fitted standard connectors provide an easy means of connecting it to battery and motor.

Super-light for improved chassis handing
The light weight of MC600C allows you to lower your model's Centre of Gravity for improved roadholding.

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The Futaba 2.4GHz Story

In our decades-long history, Futaba has brought many "firsts" to radio-control: Pulse-Code Modulation (PCM)...1024 and 2048 resolution...systems with 9 and 14 channels...transmitters with ultra-reliable dual internal processors. Now Futaba is the first of the traditional radio manufacturers to bring the advantages of 2.4GHz spread spectrum technology to modelers – and the first to introduce that technology in a full-range aircraft system. For getting the full benefits of 2.4GHz technology, you'll find that Futaba's experience makes all the difference. Ask competitors such as driver Taylor James, who has already racked up multiple wins with Futaba's 3PK 2.4GHz! Or award winning pilot Jason Shulman, who says "the fast response and glitch-free performance is unbelievable!"

Futaba takes great pride in making sure that every new product performs flawlessly before it's offered to our customers. Others hesitate to invest so much effort in testing. Some may even consider their "first run" products a step in the process of working out bugs, using feedback from the earliest buyers. Futaba is different. When you choose a Futaba 2.4GHz FASST radio system or module/receiver set, you've selected a fully tested, well-engineered, totally reliable product – one that's absolutely ready to give demanding R/C hobbyists the performance they expect. Our hands-on experience with 2.4GHz technology stretches back 15 years, long before anyone considered its value in hobby applications. That's when engineers in Futaba's industrial R/C division – designers of radio-control tools for construction, civil engineering, and similar uses – began employing and perfecting their own 2.4GHz equipment. Those same engineers were brought in to share their knowledge as soon as we were comfortable that 2.4GHz technology had perfected for the unique demands of R/C hobby applications. No other radio manufacturer had such an instant supply of expertise.

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Futaba R6004FF 4-Channel Micro Receiver

Receivers don’t get much smaller and lighter than the new R6004FF micro receiver. Its size and weight make it perfect for almost any indoor model that requires 4 channels or fewer. In addition, R6004FF design puts standard connectors on the end of the case, which makes it easier to mount in tight areas. The R6004FF can be linked to the transmitter in seconds simply by pushing the Easy Link™ button. It’s just one of the features that help 2.4GHz FASST™ (Futaba Advanced Spread Spectrum Technology) systems provide the most secure and dependable RF link in R/C.



Specifications
•Dimensions: 20.5 x 35.3 x 7.5mm
•Frequency: 2.4GHz

•Channel: 4ch
•Power Requirement: 4 - 8.5V
•Battery F/S Voltage: 3.8V
•Flight Range: 100m
•Suitable Transmitters: T6EX, T7C, TM7, TM8 / TM10 / Tm14 (7ch mode)

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Futaba 14MZ - A new standard for intuitive programming

Here, we will take an introductory look at the way the 14MZ enables you to program a model. Futaba has made programming much more intuitive than in any previous radio I’ve used. With so many new features on the 14MZ, this is not an expansion of a previous system; it is a totally new package.

In this article, we will concentrate on common systems and functions in two of the three primary menus, the System and Linkage Menus. These are functions that any of us would utilize, whether setting up a heli, plane or glider. In a future installment, we will look at the details of setting up specific aircraft and flight conditions.

I must offer my compliments to the Futaba engineers who designed this revolutionary radio. I am already comfortable with the 14MZ and I have not yet laid eyes on a final manual. Throughout testing, I have not had the need to refer to a manual for every little step. This is a giant leap forward for our hobby. After you learn the simple structure of the programming menus, you will be making creative programming modifications without feeling the need to have the manual accompany the transmitter everywhere you go! Beyond the simplicity of access, the speed of the touch screen is wonderful.

As I noted in the last issue, the 14MZ has three primary sub-screens that isolate different programming input categories: the System Menu, Linkage Menu, and Model Menu. Let’s examine the logic of the menu structure below the System and Linkage menu screens. I will touch on a subset of options to illustrate how programming proceeds.



The SYSTEM screen is dedicated to items that will be the same for all of the models in the memory. The LINKAGE MENU is dedicated to items that would stay constant within any given model, even with changes in condition. The MODEL MENU contains all items that can fluctuate within any composition of a condition. Consider a landing condition for a model: With one switch, functions that you would need in this condition but not in others would become active, and you tailor those functions to your own unique needs, as well as those of your plane. The 14MZ has the power to offer up to eight different conditions per model. Let your imagination fly!



THE SYSTEM MENU

The System Menu includes these functions, among others.

Servo Monitor: A testing and exercise system for your servos.

Trainer: The ability to let the radio play the roll of teacher or student, and in the teacher mode, to stipulate which of the channels are given to the student.

Player: This is the built-in WMA (Windows Media Audio) player, and the controls are like those of a CD player.

Date and Time: This is new in a radio; beyond helping log your flights, it can remind us when to go home and cut the grass!

Switch: Assignment of switches to different functions and controls for establishing the “ON” and “OFF” positions.

Hardware Reverse: This feature can be used to reverse the direction of any of the hardware inputs. Since I fly a lot of electric models, I will reverse the direction of the throttle here, as most of the speed controls that I use work opposite to Futaba’s default position. This should be the only time that I’ll ever need to make this change!
Information: Here is where you find out which program version or update is the latest in your radio.

The Linkage Menu includes these functions, among others:



Model Select: This is where you select the model you will fly next. Once selected, it appears on the main screen, by name, and, if you have saved a digital image, a photo of your model appears on the main screen as well.

Model Type: Four options here: Airplane, Heli, Glider and E-Glider. Once selected with the touch screen, another page comes up to allow you to select the best layout for your model. There are nine different wing type options for the planes, three different tail group configurations, and six different swash plate options if you are setting up a heli. Each field is laid out in graphic form and is very intuitive. Once you make your choice, the appropriate image appears in the box to establish your selection.

The Model Type page is critical to set the stage for follow-on programming. You do need to have a clear vision in mind as to wing and tail layout, or swash plate configuration. With virtually unlimited model memories, you could even consider experimenting with multiple options, and establish which configuration best fits your model, as well as your own personal flying style.

As with any new radio, experiment and explore. Before long, you will fully utilize all of the potential available to you!



Frequency: Selecting a frequency is really easy. With the transmitter and receiver both on, you depress the touch screen Frequency button, and three pages of frequencies pop up, channels 11-60. Choose, confirm, and the change is complete. The receiver needs no attention, as it automatically changes frequency when you change the channel at the Transmitter.

Note that the modulation button on the Frequency screen allows you to choose the super high 2048 resolution of PCM G-3, normal PCM 1024 resolution, or FM. Your receiver will come with an ID that will be unique to your system. It must be entered in the receiver ID box if you want to change frequencies. If you choose to change your frequency at the flying field, your transmitter will only communicate with your receiver.



Function: Notice that in the setup shown above, rudder is on channel one, elevator on channel two, etc. This is not a critical sequence, as it is on any other radio you may have ever used. You can assign any channel to any one of the receiver ports. If you want the traditional Futaba system of Aileron on one, Elevator on two, Throttle on three, it is easily assigned with simple touch screen inputs.

If you are ganging servos to one channel, this is the place to do it. For instance, if you had three aileron servos working the same aileron on the left wing, you might slave channels one, two, and three to Aileron one, and channels four, five and six to Aileron two. Once this is completed, you have the ability to individually match the centers, transit speeds, throws and trims to perfect symmetry. No match boxes, Y-harnesses, or other peripheral devices! This is simple and smart.

Sub Trim: No surprises here. This is where you will fine-tune the centers of 12 of the channels, all on one screen. If you have “ganged” servos, this is where you would set the centers so that they will not conflict with one another.

Servo Reversing: I hope that this needs no explanation! Select your channel with the touch screen, and establish your desired servo direction.




Failsafe: To protect against the unlikely situation in which a model loses its signal from the transmitter, you can set the controls to any preset failsafe configuration that you desire. Low throttle and a gentle turn are the most common in planes. In helis, you commonly set to hold the last input from the transmitter.



End Point Adjustment (ATV): Another common feature that should need no introduction. With ganged servos, you will want to carefully set the limits of motion and delay so that they are in perfect symmetry with each other.



Throttle Cut: I would like to see this utilized on every plane. Always establish a simple and sure way to shut down your engine! As you can see by the three option buttons, setup is as simple as selecting active or inhibit, and entering the cut position (which is simultaneously shown in the graph on the screen). Lastly, you assign a switch and the direction of that switch to cut power.

Idle Down: This function is for using a switch to achieve a low idle for descents instead of manipulating your throttle trim.



Timer: You can count up, count down, implement a stopwatch and use split times.



Dial Monitor: This handy screen is a great visual display; it lets you know where your knobs and trims are set at a glance.

THE MODEL MENU

Manufacturers of modern radios are embracing the concept of creating and using unique “flight conditions” for different flying situations. Futaba has organized the 14MZ’s programming to facilitate use of these conditions.

The Model Menu contains the items that are specific to your model and the conditions that you will utilize. We will explore this menu in our next report, when we present the final chapter of our review of the 14MZ, and install the radio in each model type—airplane, glider and heli. See you next time!

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New Arrival - KDS 800 AVCS Dual Rate Head Lock Gyro for Helicopter

Introduction
KDS800 is a gyro with function of dual rate and head lock, which designed for helicopters specially. KDS800 adopts AVCS (Angular Vector Control System), which makes the funstion of head lock more outstanding and steady. AVCS system: Since rudder trim changes caused by wind and other meteorological changes, and varieties of helicopter attitude changes are automatically cancelled, tail rudder operation becomes easy, making it perfect for 3D flight.




Specifications
•Dimensions: 28mm x 28mm x 20mm
•Control System: Digital Proportional R/C System
•Operating Voltage: 4.8V - 6V (common for receiver)
•Operating Current: 80mA
•Operating Temperature: -10 to 45 degree
•Main Functions: 1. Minimizes changes in an aircraft's attitude by wind etc., 2. Angular acceleration commands used., 3. Sensor vibration proofing., 4. Simple sensitivity adjustment.
•Recommend Model: Helicopter Package Included

•1 x KDS800 AVCS Gyro (with accessories and English Manual)

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ESC Features
Specially designed for RC boat, with excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity festures.

Use top quality electronic components to enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.

With water cooling system and the whole ESC is waterproof to get a longer life.

2 running modes "Forward Only" mode and "Forward/Backward" mode for various of boat.

Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection for lithium or nickel battery / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection.

8 steps of timing adjustment, compatible with all kinds of brushless motor.



3600 Motor Specifications
•Rotational Speed: 3600 RPM/V
•Continuous Current: 45A
•Max. Current: 55A
•Input Voltage: 8 - 18V
•Max. Efficiency: 96%
•No Load Current: 1.2A
•Internal Resistance: 85m ohm
•Motor Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 34.5mm x 58mm
•Shaft Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 3.96mm x 15mm
•Input Battery Types: NiCd/ Nimh/ Li-po Battery
•Recommend Model: Ship



ESC Specifications •ESC Model: SeaKing-60A
•Dimensions: 94mm x 33mm x 18mm
•Continuous Current: 60A
•Burst Current (10s): 120A
•BEC Ouput: 6V/3A
•Working Battery Types: 6 - 18 Cells (NiMh or Nicd), 2 - 6 Cells (Li-Po)
•Working Voltage: 7.2 - 21.6V (NiMh or Nicd), 7.4 - 22.2V (Li-Po)
•Water Cooling Pipe Diameter: 5mm •Recommend Model: RC Model Ship

Package Included
•1 x 3600 KV Brushless Motor (with English Manual)
•1 x SeaKing 60A Brushless ESC (with accessories & English Manual)

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4-Stroke Engine Maintenance

PREPARATION
Prepare your work area before beginning. I am a strong proponent of getting and staying organized while performing this type of work, and like to cover my work area with an old bath towel, or even an old bed sheet. A fabric surface helps prevent small parts from disappearing. Gather the necessary tools and supplies for the job—Allen keys, screwdrivers, pliers, a metal-marking scribe, cleaners, brushes, work tray, some shop towels and assembly oil. A heat source such as a propane torch or heat gun is also required. Keep organized and work somewhere you won’t mind making a little bit of a mess—not the good dining table!
STEP ONE - ASSESSMENT & DISASSEMBLY
When you have an old, worn-out engine, or one with crash damage - it is necessary to identify what needs replacing. Generally, if the engine was running fine before a crash, you won't have to worry about things like the piston or ring, valve leakages, etc. Identifying a bent crankshaft or cracked case might be more important! If you are trying to resurrect a completely unknown engine it is important to check every aspect of the engine.
I purchased the subject engine on eBay, in a box lot of engines and parts. I didn’t expect too much of the poor old Saito due to the photo, and when it arrived it looked to be in very poor condition. The front of the crankshaft was completely broken off in a crash. After I disassembled the engine and inspected the interior it looked very good, so I decided to rebuild it.

The first step in dismantling a 4 stroke engine is making sure you know how to re-time the cam gears. Several companied such as Saito include this information in the manual or on line, while others do not. On line forums are also a great resource if you can't find documentation for this critical step.

Cleaning the exterior dirt and grime is the next step. Knock off any crud and mud before you start to tear it down. Dirt packed into a machine screw heads can make it impossible to seat the necessary Allen wrench or tip - try cleaning the dirt out with a small awl or scriber, or even a jeweler’s screwdriver. Then you can start taking things apart.

I usually begin by removing the carburetor and back plate. If you have any trouble with screws, try heating them up briefly with the tip of a soldering iron or gun to break the bond of old oil or threadlock. The back plate is usually sealed with a paper gasket or o-ring. Carefully ease paper gaskets off with a knife to prevent tearing. Some four stroke engines do not use a seal on the back plate since crankcase leakage is not a concern for running performance, though a decent seal will prevent oil from leaking out and making a mess.

Next I like to remove the cylinder or head and liner, depending on the engine design. Once you remove the head, the push rods and cover tubes usually become loose as well. For now, place the head and other parts aside.



If you have had the engine running and the valves are not leaking, the overhaul will be easier. You can usually tell if the valves are leaking by turning the engine over with the rocker covers off. Listen and look for a tell tale hiss, or bubbles, or some sort of leakage up through the valve guides. Turn the engine over both clockwise and counter-clockwise and see how it holds compression at TDC. If you suspect a leaking valve, either the valves will need to be cleaned and lapped to the seat again, or new valves may be necessary. Lapping and replacing valves requires experience and is outside the scope of this tutorial. In general, the intake valve and seat rarely needs attention - the exhaust valve may see some carbon build up around it which can be cleaned off with a stiff toothbrush and cleaner. To extract the valves, you will need to compress the spring and remove the keeper or split collets without letting the parts fly away! Please take care and only remove the valves if absolutely necessary.

The piston/rod assembly can usually be slid off of the crank pin. If the engine you have has a small hole in the crankcase, you may need to extract the piston pin through this hole before the connecting rod can be slid off of the crank pin. Use a small piece of hard wire and form a small “L” on one end. Hook this through the pin and pull it out through the crank case access hole being careful not to score the piston or liner.

The camshaft and housing/cap (again depending upon brand) can now be removed. Again, take note how the timing mark is situated when the crank shaft is at TDC or BDC (makes no difference). On the Saito engines, the cam housing is attached with four cap head screws and sealed to the case with a paper gasket. The camshaft can be removed by loosening a small set screw in the housing top, and then extracting the camshaft spindle. On engines like the O.S. style, the housing is part of the crankcase casting. The end cap is removed, and the camshaft is extracted with a small pair of pliers with non serrated tips. Once the camshaft is out, the cam followers can be pushed out and set aside.

Removing the prop drive washer is easy if it is held with a key or similar anti rotation method. If the engine utilizes a tapered split collet, it is generally the easiest and safest method to use a small puller. You can fashion one from a small battery puller, or modify the tips of a small gear puller. Try and remove the drive washer without hammering on the end of the crankshaft - which will deform the threads and cause you grief later on! Now, the crankshaft generally slides out of the bearings by hand, or will come out easily with a gentle tap with a brass or plastic faced mallet or wooden block.



The original bearings had suffered from poor maintenance
and storage. I ordered replacements from Boca Bearings. The next step is to remove the bearings. In my case, the bearings were rough and slightly rusted - definitely candidates for replacement! I ordered a set of high quality bearings from Boca Bearing. In the last overhaul article I showed how a heat gun could be used to warm up the crank case in order to remove the bearings. This time, I used a small propane torch - just keep the flame moderate, and always moving around the case exterior where the bearing is seated. Once the bearing is loose, tap the bearing out with a wooden dowel. Use a heavy work glove or oven mitt to hold the case while hot!

At this point, all parts should be apart, laid out in front of you and ready for the next step.

CLEANING
For cleaning the parts of the engine, I like to use non-solvent based cleaners if possible. Although chemicals like lacquer thinner and even mineral spirits can be used for cleaning parts, solvents are flammable, give off harmful fumes, and are not good for your skin. I like using a water-based citrus degreaser and an alkaline detergent for cleaning my engines. I buy my detergent in bulk from an industrial supplier, but it is basically the same product sold in hobby shops for cleaning burnt-on oil and gunk off of your engines. Taking the parts one at a time, I pour some citrus cleaner into a plastic container and use a toothbrush and small stainless steel wire brush to clean the respective part. I only use the wire brush on external surfaces with the toothbrush used to clean all internal parts - the nylon bristles won’t hurt anything but are stuff enough to clean well.

Then I dilute some of the detergent in a 50% mix with water and wash the part again before rinsing the part in clean warm water. After rinsing, set the part aside on a clean shop towel to dry.



For steel parts such as the crankshaft and any fasteners, you can spray a light coating of a rust preventative such as WD-40 on the piece after the rinse. This will ensure no rusting will occur. If you reassemble the engine soon after cleaning, the assembly oil will take care of that issue.


Mild cleaning in a citrus-based solution is the order of the day. I use a toothbrush to avoid scaring the metal components. Stubborn burnt-on oil can usually be removed with the fine stainless brush. I also lightly scrape off the heavy stuff with an X-acto blade. Heavy carbon build up on the piston top can also be removed with a knife blade but be VERY careful not to nick the edges of the piston. Sometimes, a small piece of a medium grit 3M Scotchbrite pad can also be used to clean the stubborn stuff.

Some engines may have so much burnt on oil that they need a much more extensive cleaning by other means - ultrasonic cleaners, caustic detergent baths, and a warm antifreeze bath are all methods that can be used. For the majority of engines though, a simple hand cleaning as I describe here is more than satisfactory. Once all of the individual parts are clean and dry, we can move on!

Note: some of the steel components such as the prop washer & nut, and the steel screws are finished with a rust preventative (and attractive) black oxide finish. This can, in time, wear away exposing the bare steel which can then easily rust. Here is a method I use to reblacken these parts - fill a quart size can with regular motor oil. Using an old pair of needle nose pliers, grip the part to be retreated in the jaws, and heat to a dull red with a propane torch. Immediately quench the part in the can of oil for a few seconds, and then place on a heat resistant surface to cool. This will restore the black oxidized finish. Just be very careful, and only perform this outdoors with nothing flammable nearby!

INSPECTION
In most cases, you will probably just be doing a cleaning and maybe a bearing replacement. From time to time, engines which have been run for extended periods of time (and perhaps in less than ideal conditions) will need some other parts replaced. Looking at the piston and liner, both should have a smooth, shiny appearance and few vertical lines (some light scratches are normal and in most of our four strokes which use a ringed piston, are generally not an issue). Deep scratches or noticeable nicks in the ring are a sign that some foreign material has passed through the engine and if compression is suspect, a new ring may be required.
Connecting rods should have no noticeable play on either end - generally if the crank pin end is over 0.003" it is considered worn. Piston pin fit both into the upper end of the connecting rod and piston bosses should not exceed 0.002" - if it is not possible for you to measure these accurately, when assembled you can usually “feel” excessive play. If you are not sure, send it in for service or seek help from another member of your club who knows more about engines. Gaskets and seals should be unbroken and flat. Damaged gaskets can be re ordered from suppliers, or you can purchase gasket sheet material and cut your own like I prefer to do.

In my case, with this Saito FA80, a new crank shaft was definitely needed, and obtained from Horizon Hobby. The bearings were also in trouble, feeling rough and pitted - a new set was obtained from Boca Bearing. Although the exterior of the engine looked bad, it was really only the rocker covers (which originally were chromed) that had suffered poor storage and peeling chrome. I carefully bead blasted them back to a natural aluminum finish to match the crank case. Inside, the parts looked great and the engine still had excellent compression.

REASSEMBLY
The first step in getting everything back together is to install the new bearings. Again, heating the crankcase with the torch (or heat gun, or in the oven set at 250 F to 275 F) will allow the new bearings to slip into their cavities. Wear a glove to prevent burns and when the case is warm enough, press the bearing in and tap it home with a wooden block, or a plastic hammer. Do not force the bearings in, and do not use a steel hammer to try and pound them in. If they are too tight, warm the case further until they slip in easily or with a gentle tap. The crankshaft should be able to slip back into the bearings now, and a gentle tap on the rear end will seat it up against the rear bearing. The bearings should come pre greased. However, I like to use oil on all parts during reassembly. I use my bottle of after run oil for an assembly lube. Making sure all parts are well lubricated will prevent any chance of damage when you run the engine for the first time after its back together.



Saved from the scrap bin, this Saito is now restored and ready to go, promising many
years of dependable service. After the crankshaft is in, slip the rod and piston back onto the crank pin in the same order they came off. Slide down the liner onto the piston and into the case. Some engines have a liner that is also a slight interference fit in the case and the case will have to be warmed up in order to get the liner back in. Ease the liner over the ring while compressed with your fingers. Four stroke engines do not use pinned rings so the ring orientation is unimportant.

The camshaft, housing or cover, and cam followers can be reassembled. Set the timing precisely and check it twice! A little grease can prevent the cam shaft from moving when trying to mesh it with the crankshaft gearing. The push rods and covers can be placed into the rubber boots, and then the head and head gasket can be placed on the cylinder and tightened down.

When the head is seated on the cylinder (or in the case of the Saito’s, when the cylinder itself is positioned onto the crankcase) care must be taken in order to line the push rod covers up into the rubber seals, and also to get the push rod ends into the cup seats on the rockers.

Snug each head screw evenly and not too tightly. Without a glow plug installed, you should be able to easily turn over the engine when gripping the crankshaft nose. Any unevenness in the head bolts may cause a distortion in the liner which you will be able to feel when turning over the engine.

One important thing to take care of with a four stroke engine each time it is disassembled, is the valve clearances. Too little clearance in between the rockers and the valves will not allow the valves to seat properly and they will leak. Excess clearance will allow the cams, followers and push rod ends to get “hammered” and worn. With the majority of our model four stroke engines, a minimum clearance of 0.0015" to 0.002" and a maximum of 0.004" is where you should try and get. With a set of steel feeler gauges (some engines are supplied with them, if not, you can get these at any decent tool or machine supplier) you can loosen the locking nut and screw in/out the rocker adjustment until you can just get the thinner feeler to slip in between the push rod and the rocker, yet not the thicker one. Tighten the lock nuts while holding the adjustment screws in place and you are done!

Put the rear cover back on, and then the carb and muffler. Assemble the collet and/or key, drive washer and put a prop onto the shaft and tighten with the washer and nut. A few extra drops of oil down the head before installing the plug and muffler will again insure adequate oil to all parts.

That’s it! Flip the prop over - check for compression, leaks from the head or backplate, around the carb, etc. The engine should be now ready to mount and test run.

TEST RUNNING & SET UP
Once the engine has been reassembled and everything checked over for tightness, you can install a new glow plug and try a test run. With my old Saito, I chose to install a new O.S. F four stroke plug, and an APC 13x6 propeller. Fueled up with some Wildcat 10% Premium Xtra glow fuel on my test rig, It started up easily and within a short time I had the needles set up again (I had removed them for cleaning of the carburetor) and the engine purring away.
The best part, and most satisfying to me, is taking an engine many would consider junk - rebuilding it and placing it back into service powering another model through the air! This Saito had definitely seen better days, but it will continue to run for many seasons with its new crankshaft and bearings.

Working on your engines doesn’t have to be intimidating. With some time, patience and experience you can do it. Send any comments you may have regarding this and other articles to myself or the editors here at Fly RC.

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Excellent Transmitter and Receiver -- Futaba 4PK 4ch 2.4GHz Transmitter & R604FS Receiver

The design goes beyond stylish; the 4PK is also very well-balanced and ergonomic. The 4PK transmitter weighs only 1.5 pounds, which racers will appreciate at the end of a long, grueling main, and you can also position the wheel and adjust the trigger location to perfectly fit your hand and your type of driving.

While driving, you'll enjoy performance pluses such as built-in 40-model memory, 10-character naming and super-sensitive 2048 resolution, to name just a few. Because the 4PK was designed as a native 2.4GHz spread spectrum system, there's no need for a separate module to worry about, a state-of-the-art receiver is included, and all of the incredible benefits of Futaba's FASST system technology are at your command.

Transmitter Features
2.4GHzSS (Spread Spectrum) radio communication system - Frequency channel setting unnecessary: Channel shifting takes place within the 2.4GHz band automatically, this system minimizes the interference from other 2.4GHz systems.

Model memory for 40 models - Model names can use up to 10 letters, numbers, and symbols, so that logical names may be used. A model memory with different setups can be created by using the model copy function.

Two function selection modes: Menu Selection and Direct Selection - The setup screens are called from menu screens. The menu screen can be selected from among 4 levels (LEVEL1/LEVEL2/LEVEL3/BIGCAR). Frequently used (high degree of urgency) functions can be assigned to direct selection buttons which quickly call the assigned function. (8 functions)

Menu customizing - Function menus can be customized as desired. The menu order, display function and other functions used by individual models only can be displayed.

Brake mixing for large cars (BRAKE) - Brake mixing of the front and rear wheels of 1/5GP and other large cars can be adjusted independently.

Anti-skid braking system (A.B.S) - This function applies the brakes so that the tires of gasoline engine cars, etc. do not lose their grip on the road even when braking at corners.

Throttle acceleration (ACCEL) - Gasoline engines cars have a time lag before the clutch and brakes become effective. The TH-ACCEL function reduces this time lag.

Throttle speed (THSPD) - Sudden trigger operation on a slippery road surface will only cause the tires to spin and the model to not accelerate smoothly. By setting the throttle speed function, operation can be performed smoothly and easily. It also suppresses battery consumption.

Start function (START) - A pre-set throttle position, less than full throttle, to be used for the initial acceleration off the line without having wheel spin. When the trigger is released, auto-start is turned off and throttle operates normally again.

Steering speed (STSPD) - When you sense that the steering servo is too fast, etc., the servo operating speed (direction that suppresses the maximum speed) can be adjusted.

Racing timer (TIMER) - The lap timer can record 99 lap times, total time, and average lap time. The timer can also be started automatically by trigger operation. The race time and audible alarm can be set. The 4PK also has a navigation timer effective during practice runs. The target lap and refueling time are indicated by an audible alarm. An up timer and down timer are also provided.

Digital trim w/reset function - The current trim position is displayed on the LCD screen. The operating amount of 1 step can also be adjusted. Trim operation has no affect on the maximum travel of the steering and throttle servos.

Function select dial function (DIAL) - This function assigns functions to dials (digital trim, grip dial, knob). The step amount and operating direction can also be adjusted. Trim positioning at each model call is unnecessary because all the dials are digital.

Function select switch function (SWTCH) - This function assigns functions to 3 switches. The operating direction can also be set.

MC-Link - This is a dedicated function which allows setting of the contents of the Link software which makes possible Futaba speed controller (ESC), MC850C, MC601C, MC410CR, etc. variable frequency and other data changes by PC at the T4PK.

Edit button lock & trim/dial lock functions - Lock functions which prohibit setting and operation by transmitter edit buttons, trim, and dials are provided.

Wheel & Trigger position can be changed - The wheel position can be offset by using an accessory APA wheel position offset adapter. The wheel angle can also be adjusted. The position of the throttle trigger can be moved forward and backward.

Left-handed support - The left and right installation direction of the wheel section can be reversed.

Tension adjustment function - The tension of the steering wheel & throttle trigger springs can be adjusted from the outside.

Mechanical ATL Adjustment - Make this adjustment when you want to decrease the total travel of the brake (push) side of the throttle trigger.

Display switch - Display switch allows function setup without transmitting.

Vibrator built into the grip - The vibrator can be operated at racing timer lap navigation, time-up, and low battery alarm.

7-color LED pilot lamp- Your favorite color can be selected.

Servo Specifications
•Dimensions: 39 x 26 x 14mm
•Frequency: 2.4GHz SS
•Channel: 4ch

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Charge your transmitter and receiver batteries safety

Thank you for interesting a CR-2000. The CR-2000 is a quick charger for the nickel cadmium and nickel metal hydride battery used in radio control transmitters, receivers, and glow boosters. Since this charger can charge the battery faster than ordinary chargers for home use, that much more care is required. To fully display the performance of the charger and to use safely, please read this instruction manual thoroughly before use.



Specifications
•Dimensions: 151 x 85 x 35mm
•Input Voltage: DC 11-15V (low battery display at 10.5V)
•Operation Voltage: 10.5V
•Suitable Battery: Ni-Cd, Ni-MH
•Charging Current: TX: 0.5-2A, RX: 0.05-2A, Glow: 1-2.5A
•Batteries Range: TX: 6-8 cells / 500-2000mAh, RX: 4-6 cells / 50-2000mAh, Glow: 1 cell / 1000-2500mAh
•Cut-off: Delta Peak •Display: LCD with Back-light
•Safety Device: Over load, Reverse polarity protected

Features
Nickel cadmium and nickel metal hydride batteries for transmitter, receiver, and glow booster can be charged.

Auto cut by peak voltage detection.

Transmitter and receiver batteries or transmitter and glow booster batteries can be charged simultaneously.

The charging current can be changed. Transmitter: 0.5A~2.0A(0.1A steps), receiver: 0.05A~2.0A(0.05A steps), glow booster: 1A~2.5A (0.5A steps).

The input voltage, output voltage, charging current, peak voltage, charging time, and charging amount can be monitored on an LCD display.

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